3 weeks, one more than expected. That's what I took me to complete my therapy against the
amazement overdose. First of all I would like to thank those who sent me messages cheering up (e.g. Cry, David, Esti...), reading comments on the blog pays for the time spent at the internet cafes. I guess there must've been some sort of
misunderstanding about the whole Willy Fog's disease thing. There was nothing to worry about, it was just a metaphor. It kinda makes me feel guilty that people working hard back in Europe thought that I was suffering while in reality I was enjoying myself in a very relaxing Lao town.
That said I will now unfold the key points of my successful plan. In case you missed it, the underlying goal was to feel like at home for a while. How do you do that when you're +20000 km away, in the middle of Laos? The first thing you need is a
temporary home. I chose
Vang Vieng, a mid-sized town halfway between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. I did this in spite of a terrible first impression which involves hordes of British teenagers who -literally- fly into the city to get
drunk (or worse) day after day for a few weeks. Then, what made me stay? well, this:
Meters and meters of virgin limestone rock calling for anyone wanting to climb it. That's how I met
Adam and
Apple, my
temporary family. These Lao brothers run a modest
climbing school which is the main meeting point for any respected climber that makes it this far. After a couple of days climbing together I told Adam about my plan and he suggested that I could move in with them and help at the shop.
This takes me to the third point of my plan: doing something useful. At the climbing school I would learn all about the equipment and techniques. If there were clients I would
join for the day, if there weren't I would
train,
read or
cook among other
crucial things.
However, working at the shop was never my primary objective when I decided to settle in Vang Vieng. Far from that my main interest was to help the guys at
Phoudindaeng's youth centre. In contrast to children, teaching teenagers is something that I can conceive as a short-term activity. After spending some time with the teens I noticed that they lacked some basic knowledge of geography (one of my favorite school subjects). I thought that this could be useful for them if they were to work with foreigners in the future. Thus I put together a
two week course on geography rich in games, challenges and interesting stories... (you know, the kind of cool things that only a teacher that climbs and drives a motorcycle would do, hahaha). Preparing and teaching the lessons would add to my list of daily duties which looked something like this:
8:00 am - Up for a
bucket shower!
8:30 am - Breakfast with CNN at Phua's
9:00 am - Climbing (when possible) or working at the shop
3:00 pm - Preparing the lessons
6:00 pm - Teaching at the youth centre
8:00 pm - Cooking or dinning out
10:00 pm - Time for a beer (or a
caterpillar whisky!)
I am satisfied with my work in Vang Vieng. My friends at the youth centre are now able to recall the biggest-smallest/most-least populated continents and countries in Southeast Asia - which makes me very proud. More importantly I've discovered that even the most incompetent lecturer can teach when there is someone who really wants to learn :). For this and for the rest of the things that I've done over the last weeks I feel that it's time to resume my trip. Be warned,
Iñaki is back on the road!
PS: On my last day in Vang Vieng I decided to give a try to the river tubing that attracts those party animals. Done responsibly it's fun, otherwise it can be potentially mortal.
Al final mi tratamiento contra el Mal del Gran Viajero me ha llevado tres semanitas. Tres semanas intentando sentirme como en casa para restaurar mis ganas de aventura. Y como consigue uno sentirse como en casa a mas de 20000 km de distancia? Muy facil. En primer lugar hay que elegir un nuevo hogar. Yo elegi Vang Vieng, un pueblo de tamano medio entre Luang Prabang y Vientiane. Aunque mi primera impresion del lugar no fue precisamente buena (el pueblo es un nido de adolescentes britanicos que llegan con una sola cosa en mente: beber hasta perder la conciencia); los metros y metros de roca caliza que flanquean el pueblo conquistaron mi alma de escalador en ciernes. Y alli me dirigi en compania de Adam y Apple. Estos hermanos lao (<- gentilicio de Laos) atienden una pequena escuela de escalada referente para cualquier trepamuros que se acerque al lugar. Tras un par de dias escalando le comente al hermano mayor que andaba buscando un lugar para asentarme una temporada. Adam me propuso trabajar en la tienda de escalada con ellos. Yo acepte la oferta gustosamente. Desde entonces la tienda se convirtio en mi campo base. Si se daba la oportunidad acompanaba a algun cliente a las rocas; sino, mataba el tiempo entrenando, leyendo, cocinando... entre otras muchas cosas utiles.
Aunque todo esto estaba muy guay, lo que realmente me movio a quedarme en Vang Vieng fue la gente que habia conocido semanas antes en el Centro para Jovenes de Phoudindaeng. Mi intencion era colaborar con ellos por un tiempo. Hable con los responsables y les comente que no queria implicarme con ninos (ya que eso requiere un trabajo continuo durante muchos meses); sin embargo, se me ocurrio una forma de ayudar a estos adolescentes. Durante mis primeras visitas note que algunos de estos jovenes carecian de conocimientos basicos de geografia. Pense que si su futuro esta ligado a trabajar con extrangeros, proveerles de dichos conocimientos podria serles util. Y asi es como me decidi a impartir un breve curso de geografia basica. Con la ayuda de internet desempolve mis conocimientos de geografia y prepare un programa rico en juegos e historietas. Todas las tardes, a eso de las 6 cogia la moto de mi amigo Apple y recorria los 4 km hasta el pequeno pueblo donde se encontraba el aula.
He de reconocer que estoy mas que satisfecho con la experiencia. Los chavales han aprendido algo (son capaces de mentar los continentes y paises mas/menos grandes y/o poblados); y yo he aprendido que hasta el mas incompetente de los profesores puede ensenar cuando hay gente dispuesta a aprender. Por todo esto y por el resto de cosas que aprendi en Vang Vieng creo que ya estoy en disposicion de continuar mi travesia. Iñaki vuelve a la carretera! o PS: En mi ultimo dia en el pueblo decidi unirme a la marabunta de borrachos que se tiran rio abajo saltando y tirandose desde casi cualquier cosa. Hecho de manera responsable es divertido, de cualquier otra manera es potencialmente mortal.
The next day we followed our host's advice and took a bus to a nearby Tad Lane waterfall. Rewarding sight, however I kept feeling tired. That night I slept 13 hours in a row. Next day's fever confirmed my suspicions: I was sick. I don't know how it happened, perhaps the air-con in the bus, maybe some mosquito bite, who knows. For the next four days I had fever, over 39ºC sometimes! In spite of the well-known presence of malaria in the area I decided not to panic. I fed on soup and juices and soon I felt better. Nonetheless this didn't spare me one of the most difficult nights of my life. It comprised lots of sweating, uncountable visits to a pitch dark toilet and an endless succession of surreal dreams (did you ever wonder what the self-cross-convolution of a sleeping bag may look like? that night I found out). By the time I got better my visa was about to expire so I had to leave the country. A bitter goodbye for a sweet country.
