Bureaucrazy in Vientiane

I was first introduced to the People's Democratic Republic of Laos in 1994. I remembered reading this funny word 'Laos' in some newspaper. The headlines announced the arrest of Luis Roldan in Vientiane. This infamous fellow -former chief of the Spanish Guardia Civil- had been on the run since the authorities had found firm evidence of major embezzlement. His 10 months of delicious baguettes and exotic cocktails came to an end a humid morning of January.

I traced the steps of this modern villano from Luang Prabang to Vientiane. It's hard to imagine a better place to get lost than Laos - especially if you hold a fake Argentinian passport as Mr. Roldan did. While it is true that any white person will stick out in the countryside, Vientiane itself is a decent sized urban salad where Western business men and diplomats mix up with locals.

There is not much to see in this capital. Actually, I wish I could've saved one or two days of my three days there. But I couldn't. Bureaucracy wouldn't allow me. My mission was relatively simple: extend my visa for one week and get a new tourist visa for Thailand. I arrived to the first checkpoint -the immigration office- on Day 1 at 11:26. As I stepped in the office three young ladies came out to inform me that the office was closed until 1pm. This chunk of information didn't quite match the 'opening hours' board standing right behind them where it was clearly stated that the office should be open until 12. No worries, I'm on holidays, I thought. When they came back I was forwarded to four different desks until I finally found the right form. Completed and signed I proceeded to the payment: $17 including a $3 out of nowhere service fee. Apparently stamping a paper is more complicated in Laos than anywhere else in the world and for that reason my passport had to sleep at the immigration office until next morning. I thought I had learnt the lesson on my first day so I woke up even earlier on Day 2. I bicycled to the immigration office and collected my visa. After that I went to the bank where I took 2 million kip out of an ATM (n.b. it's funny when I think of the meaning of this sentence in Dutch: I took 2 million chickens out of an ATM in Laos). I exchanged half of my chickens into US dollars, for I knew I was going to need them for the Thai visa. I arrived to the embassy by 10am, well in time. Here another surprise, the Thai embassy wouldn't issue Thai visas (why would they?), instead I had to apply at the Thai consulate. It took me almost two hours to find it. I arrived at 11:52, 8 minutes to closing time. My hope was gone, they wouldn't let me in. Indeed a guard canceled my first attempt. Somehow I managed to sneak in three minutes later. Aware of the unfriendliness of local bureaucrats I grabbed the first (sample) form that I saw and filled it in with shaky-sweaty letters. A merciful secretary accepted my application form at 12:02 and invited me to pay. This was my last challenge for the day. The Thai consulate wouldn't accept US dollars (why would they?), instead I had to race to the nearest bank to convert a handful of chickens into Thai currency.

I spent that afternoon recovering from the stress at a water park - not the most relaxing place some would think, but undoubtedly refreshing. Next morning I picked up my passport, everything in order, au revoir Vientiane!

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La primera vez que oi hablar de Laos fue en 1994, en algun periodico. Para los que no lo recuerden fue en Laos donde se asedió al mas célebre profugo de la historia reciente de España: Luis Roldán. En realidad Luis Roldán se entregó a las autoridades en el aeropuerto de Bangkok tras 10 meses de fuga por, entre otros lugares, el norte de Laos. Aunque no esta del todo claro (hay quien piensa que Roldan nunca llegó a pisar suelo lao, siendo esta una version pactada con el entonces ministro de interior Juan Belloch) a mi me parecio interesante retrazar los pasos de este infausto personaje por suelo asiático. Por ello me propuse completar la primera mitad del tour: Luang Prabang - Vientiane - Bangkok - Carcel de Brieva (Ávila). Aparte de los restos de la cultura colonialista francesa (entiendase baguettes, croissants, 2CV y demas) no encontre nada interesante en la pequeña capital. Mis dias alli los pase de oficina en oficina y de embajada en embajada combatiendo la burocracia lao, la mas pesada que he conocido. Tras tres dias consegui lo que buscaba, extender mi visado una semana mas y un visado para Tailandia. Un bañito en un aquapark cercano, un granizado viendo el atardecer y listo para seguir mi camino.

Pics'n'vids: Vientiane

Iñaki Completes His First 6B!

I would like to dedicate this to my climbing instructors Pieter, Jonathan, Adam and Apple for their wise advice and especially to my mum and dad, who must be delighted to see their son hanging from a 28m high wall.

Geography Rocks!

3 weeks, one more than expected. That's what I took me to complete my therapy against the amazement overdose. First of all I would like to thank those who sent me messages cheering up (e.g. Cry, David, Esti...), reading comments on the blog pays for the time spent at the internet cafes. I guess there must've been some sort of misunderstanding about the whole Willy Fog's disease thing. There was nothing to worry about, it was just a metaphor. It kinda makes me feel guilty that people working hard back in Europe thought that I was suffering while in reality I was enjoying myself in a very relaxing Lao town.

That said I will now unfold the key points of my successful plan. In case you missed it, the underlying goal was to feel like at home for a while. How do you do that when you're +20000 km away, in the middle of Laos? The first thing you need is a temporary home. I chose Vang Vieng, a mid-sized town halfway between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. I did this in spite of a terrible first impression which involves hordes of British teenagers who -literally- fly into the city to get drunk (or worse) day after day for a few weeks. Then, what made me stay? well, this:

Meters and meters of virgin limestone rock calling for anyone wanting to climb it. That's how I met Adam and Apple, my temporary family. These Lao brothers run a modest climbing school which is the main meeting point for any respected climber that makes it this far. After a couple of days climbing together I told Adam about my plan and he suggested that I could move in with them and help at the shop.

This takes me to the third point of my plan: doing something useful. At the climbing school I would learn all about the equipment and techniques. If there were clients I would join for the day, if there weren't I would train, read or cook among other crucial things.

However, working at the shop was never my primary objective when I decided to settle in Vang Vieng. Far from that my main interest was to help the guys at Phoudindaeng's youth centre. In contrast to children, teaching teenagers is something that I can conceive as a short-term activity. After spending some time with the teens I noticed that they lacked some basic knowledge of geography (one of my favorite school subjects). I thought that this could be useful for them if they were to work with foreigners in the future. Thus I put together a two week course on geography rich in games, challenges and interesting stories... (you know, the kind of cool things that only a teacher that climbs and drives a motorcycle would do, hahaha). Preparing and teaching the lessons would add to my list of daily duties which looked something like this:

8:00 am - Up for a bucket shower!
8:30 am - Breakfast with CNN at Phua's
9:00 am - Climbing (when possible) or working at the shop
3:00 pm - Preparing the lessons
6:00 pm - Teaching at the youth centre
8:00 pm - Cooking or dinning out
10:00 pm - Time for a beer (or a caterpillar whisky!)

I am satisfied with my work in Vang Vieng. My friends at the youth centre are now able to recall the biggest-smallest/most-least populated continents and countries in Southeast Asia - which makes me very proud. More importantly I've discovered that even the most incompetent lecturer can teach when there is someone who really wants to learn :). For this and for the rest of the things that I've done over the last weeks I feel that it's time to resume my trip. Be warned, Iñaki is back on the road!

PS: On my last day in Vang Vieng I decided to give a try to the river tubing that attracts those party animals. Done responsibly it's fun, otherwise it can be potentially mortal.

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Al final mi tratamiento contra el Mal del Gran Viajero me ha llevado tres semanitas. Tres semanas intentando sentirme como en casa para restaurar mis ganas de aventura. Y como consigue uno sentirse como en casa a mas de 20000 km de distancia? Muy facil. En primer lugar hay que elegir un nuevo hogar. Yo elegi Vang Vieng, un pueblo de tamano medio entre Luang Prabang y Vientiane. Aunque mi primera impresion del lugar no fue precisamente buena (el pueblo es un nido de adolescentes britanicos que llegan con una sola cosa en mente: beber hasta perder la conciencia); los metros y metros de roca caliza que flanquean el pueblo conquistaron mi alma de escalador en ciernes. Y alli me dirigi en compania de Adam y Apple. Estos hermanos lao (<- gentilicio de Laos) atienden una pequena escuela de escalada referente para cualquier trepamuros que se acerque al lugar. Tras un par de dias escalando le comente al hermano mayor que andaba buscando un lugar para asentarme una temporada. Adam me propuso trabajar en la tienda de escalada con ellos. Yo acepte la oferta gustosamente. Desde entonces la tienda se convirtio en mi campo base. Si se daba la oportunidad acompanaba a algun cliente a las rocas; sino, mataba el tiempo entrenando, leyendo, cocinando... entre otras muchas cosas utiles.

Aunque todo esto estaba muy guay, lo que realmente me movio a quedarme en Vang Vieng fue la gente que habia conocido semanas antes en el Centro para Jovenes de Phoudindaeng. Mi intencion era colaborar con ellos por un tiempo. Hable con los responsables y les comente que no queria implicarme con ninos (ya que eso requiere un trabajo continuo durante muchos meses); sin embargo, se me ocurrio una forma de ayudar a estos adolescentes. Durante mis primeras visitas note que algunos de estos jovenes carecian de conocimientos basicos de geografia. Pense que si su futuro esta ligado a trabajar con extrangeros, proveerles de dichos conocimientos podria serles util. Y asi es como me decidi a impartir un breve curso de geografia basica. Con la ayuda de internet desempolve mis conocimientos de geografia y prepare un programa rico en juegos e historietas. Todas las tardes, a eso de las 6 cogia la moto de mi amigo Apple y recorria los 4 km hasta el pequeno pueblo donde se encontraba el aula.

He de reconocer que estoy mas que satisfecho con la experiencia. Los chavales han aprendido algo (son capaces de mentar los continentes y paises mas/menos grandes y/o poblados); y yo he aprendido que hasta el mas incompetente de los profesores puede ensenar cuando hay gente dispuesta a aprender. Por todo esto y por el resto de cosas que aprendi en Vang Vieng creo que ya estoy en disposicion de continuar mi travesia. Iñaki vuelve a la carretera! o

PS: En mi ultimo dia en el pueblo decidi unirme a la marabunta de borrachos que se tiran rio abajo saltando y tirandose desde casi cualquier cosa. Hecho de manera responsable es divertido, de cualquier otra manera es potencialmente mortal.