It was 4:30 am when I tied the laces of my trekking shoes, placed some new batteries in my head lamp and took my loyal stick. A French-speaking Nepali guide amused his group at the dinning room when Bodo, Benny and me left the lodge. It was dark, very dark, and we didn't know the way to Poon Hill so we decided to go inside again and wait for a guided group to take off. This didn't take long, 5 minutes later the first convoy departed. 45 minutes later we arrived to Poon Hill (3200 m). By then we had overtaken almost all the trekkers which set us in the 'pole position' for the upcoming show.
After taking a few photos of the still shady mountains the team split. The Germans took refuge from the freezing wind while I decided to find a lonely spot on my own. Good decision, the forthcoming 30 minutes would carve my wooden journal of memories for the rest of my life.
The show started at 6:28, when the first sun beams hit the Nilgiri peak. As if arranged, Angelo Badalamenti's most famous piece reached climax in perfect synchrony with the curtain of light that advanced over the Himalayan ridge. One by one, all the members of the Annapurna family saluted the tourist cameras. I'm guessing this because I couldn't see any of them from My Spot. This concert lasted for about half an hour, after that I wiped my tears of emotion and went to meet the Germans.
We had breakfast back in Ghorepani and started the last walk by nine. As we went down the 2200 m that separated Ghorepani and Nayapul I could only think about the perfection of this tale's end. I guess none of us really cared about the million stairs left behind, nor the collection of beautiful villages, nor the roaring waters of the Khali Ghandaki, we were too excited about completing the circuit.
At 15:12 of that 22nd of March we arrived to Nayapul (1050 m) putting an end to 15 days of climbs, blisters, cold showers, apple pies, namastes, and laughs. I suppose after a few months I will only remember these last things (good ones) which would certainly be a pity. I strongly believe so. This great experience can only be fully understood if one tries to make the best of every single step on the trek regardless of how hard it might seem. That's what I did -or at least- what I tried to do. To remember this and especially to honour Bodo and Benny for their amazing company I've written the Chroniques of the Annapurnas. Guys, I hope you enjoyed it!
Eran las 4 de la mañana cuando ataba los maltrechos cordones de mis botas por ultima vez. Tome mi palo y mi linterna y baje al comedor para reunirme con los demas. Nos apresuramos a comenzar el camino hacia Poon Hill sin darnos cuenta de que ninguno de nosotros sabia el camino. Con tal oscuridad no queriamos correr riesgos, volvimos al hotel y esperamos a que alguno grupo con guia partiese. Al poco tiempo un grupo de franceses salio y nosotros fuimos a su rueda. Serian sobre las 5 y media cuando coronamos Poon Hill (3200 m). Alli, busque un rincon solitario y me prepare para disfrutar del espectaulo. Durante media hora uno tras otro todos los miembros de la familia Annapurna fueron recibiendo al Sol de la mañana. Era precioso, mejor aun con la musica clasica que escuchaba en mi MP3.
Tras el espectaculo bajamos a desayundar y de alli reemprendimos camino. 2200 metros de peldaños que pasaron casi sin darnos cuenta. Estabamos demasiado ocupados pensando en que pronto llegariamos a Nayapul y completariamos el circuito. Esto sucedio a las 15:12 de aquella tarde. En aquel momento pusimos final a dos semanas de palizas, duchas frias, ampollas, tartas de manzana y risas. Supongo que con el tiempo solo recordare estas ultimas, lo cual seria una pena porque la unica manera de disfrutar realmente de este camino es sacando lo mejor de todos y cada uno de los acontecimientos que se desarrollan en el. Para no olvidarme de ninguno y sobretodo, en honor a Bodo y Benny, he escrito estas Cronicas de los Annapurnas. Espero que os hayan gustado.
Annapurnas Day 14: Wrong Way
● Saturday, March 21, 2009
After the J Day (Jacuzzi day), the three of us were more than ready to face the last obstacle before the glory. That morning we overslept half an hour, apparently my mobile phone decided that it was a good idea to give us some extra rest so the alarm just didn't go off. Now I realize that this malfunction was nothing but a premonition of the accidental day that was waiting for us outside our bedroom.
Satisfied after a pretty decent sweet breakfast, the trio took of by 9 o'clock. As usual, during the first hours of the trek we coursed a random talk. This time it was the 'Obama effect'. What we didn't know then was that this entertaining chat was (mis)leading our relaxed walk more than 5 km in the wrong direction! It was already 10 when we realized that we had moved downhill toward Beni instead of uphill to the massive ridge that flanks Poon Hill. We had to think fast. Our improvised plan was to take one of those Jeeps that we had hated so much until then and backup to Tatopani from where we would start over.
My mean phone displayed 10:40 when we started climbing the right path. That day's walking time was estimated to be more than eight hours which basically meant that we had no time for breaks if we wanted to reach Gorephani before sunset. Again I took the lead to set a vigorous pace which elicited several photo and water purifying breaks waiting for my team mates. After an exhausting 850 m climb that we completed in nearly 2 hours we caught up with another group of trekkers. This achievement facilitated a short break for lunch. When we thought that all our problems were over, the unexpected happened: it started raining! The rain wasn't very heavy but it was persistent and whereas Bodo and me had proper equipment, Benny didn't. This incident unleashed a small crisis within the team. Benny wanted to stop and spend the night in the middle of nowhere while Bodo and me thought that we should continue for two reasons: (1) we were already wet and (2) if we didn't make it to Ghorepani Bodo would miss his train to Delhi. Not without some grumbling, the team set off again. Luckily the rain stopped soon, which gave us some minutes of relaxation before running into the next problem: the fog. So far we had had sun, wind, snow, rain on the trek so I guess the fog didn't want to miss the show! Walking through a foggy forest is not a very safe thing to do but we didn't have a choice. A few hours later the fog cleared, leaving the steep climbs as the only enemy to beat.
After an overall climb of 1670 meters I reached Ghorepani (2870 m) at 17:23, the Germans did it by 17:45. That evening in Ghorepani we felt good, we had fought the mountain and we had won. It was the last night in the mountains and although it felt special I guess we were too tired to notice it. We went bed early again to dream about the glory that awaited us.
Tras el dia de relajacion en Tatopani estabamos preparados para encarar los mas de 1600 metros de subida que representaban en ultimo escoyo a la gloria. Esa mañana mi despertador no sono, era como si el destino quisiera que no nos levantaramos de la cama. De manera estupida decidimos hacer caso omiso al destino y una vez desayunados emprendimos la etapa. Tras una hora de caminata estamos tranquilamente departiendo sobre la eleccion de Obama cuando de repente nos dimos cuenta de que estabamos 'bajando' en vez de 'subiendo'.
En efecto, habiamos tomado el camino equivocado y ahora teniamos que rectificar 5 km para empezar de nuevo. Eran casi las 10:30 cuando comenzamos la subida, cuya duracion estaba prevista en 8 horas. Esto significaba que si queriamos llegar a Ghorepani (2870 m) antes del anochecer no teniamos tiempo para descansos ni comida. Tras dos horas de mucho esfuerzo completamos 850 m. de subida y alcanzamos a otro grupo de trekkers. Esto nos permitio parar para comer rapido antes de volver al sendero. Cuando ya nos las dabamos felices ocurrio lo impredecible: empezo a llover.
La lluvia desato una pequeña crisis en el grupo. Benny, q no tenia ropa impermeable, queria parar y pasar la noche en un refugio en mitad de ninguna parte; Bodo y yo queriamos continuar. Habia dos argumentos: primero, ya estabamos mojados y segundo Bodo si parabamos alli Bodo yo alcanzaria su tren a Delhi a tiempo. No sin regañadients, el convoy sigio la marcha. Afortunadamente la lluvia ceso pronto, pero a ella le siguio la niebla que hacia el camino entre los bosques nepalis bastante inseguro. Asi, superando las condiciones climatologica y otros 750 metros de desnivel, alcanzamos Ghorepani alrededor de las 17:30.
Esa noche era la ultima que pasariamos en las montañas. Nos habria gustado poder celebrarlo pero estabamos demasiado cansados para hacerlo asi que nos fuimos a la cama a soñar con la gloria que nos aguardaba la mañana siguiente.
Satisfied after a pretty decent sweet breakfast, the trio took of by 9 o'clock. As usual, during the first hours of the trek we coursed a random talk. This time it was the 'Obama effect'. What we didn't know then was that this entertaining chat was (mis)leading our relaxed walk more than 5 km in the wrong direction! It was already 10 when we realized that we had moved downhill toward Beni instead of uphill to the massive ridge that flanks Poon Hill. We had to think fast. Our improvised plan was to take one of those Jeeps that we had hated so much until then and backup to Tatopani from where we would start over.
My mean phone displayed 10:40 when we started climbing the right path. That day's walking time was estimated to be more than eight hours which basically meant that we had no time for breaks if we wanted to reach Gorephani before sunset. Again I took the lead to set a vigorous pace which elicited several photo and water purifying breaks waiting for my team mates. After an exhausting 850 m climb that we completed in nearly 2 hours we caught up with another group of trekkers. This achievement facilitated a short break for lunch. When we thought that all our problems were over, the unexpected happened: it started raining! The rain wasn't very heavy but it was persistent and whereas Bodo and me had proper equipment, Benny didn't. This incident unleashed a small crisis within the team. Benny wanted to stop and spend the night in the middle of nowhere while Bodo and me thought that we should continue for two reasons: (1) we were already wet and (2) if we didn't make it to Ghorepani Bodo would miss his train to Delhi. Not without some grumbling, the team set off again. Luckily the rain stopped soon, which gave us some minutes of relaxation before running into the next problem: the fog. So far we had had sun, wind, snow, rain on the trek so I guess the fog didn't want to miss the show! Walking through a foggy forest is not a very safe thing to do but we didn't have a choice. A few hours later the fog cleared, leaving the steep climbs as the only enemy to beat.
After an overall climb of 1670 meters I reached Ghorepani (2870 m) at 17:23, the Germans did it by 17:45. That evening in Ghorepani we felt good, we had fought the mountain and we had won. It was the last night in the mountains and although it felt special I guess we were too tired to notice it. We went bed early again to dream about the glory that awaited us.
Tras el dia de relajacion en Tatopani estabamos preparados para encarar los mas de 1600 metros de subida que representaban en ultimo escoyo a la gloria. Esa mañana mi despertador no sono, era como si el destino quisiera que no nos levantaramos de la cama. De manera estupida decidimos hacer caso omiso al destino y una vez desayunados emprendimos la etapa. Tras una hora de caminata estamos tranquilamente departiendo sobre la eleccion de Obama cuando de repente nos dimos cuenta de que estabamos 'bajando' en vez de 'subiendo'.
En efecto, habiamos tomado el camino equivocado y ahora teniamos que rectificar 5 km para empezar de nuevo. Eran casi las 10:30 cuando comenzamos la subida, cuya duracion estaba prevista en 8 horas. Esto significaba que si queriamos llegar a Ghorepani (2870 m) antes del anochecer no teniamos tiempo para descansos ni comida. Tras dos horas de mucho esfuerzo completamos 850 m. de subida y alcanzamos a otro grupo de trekkers. Esto nos permitio parar para comer rapido antes de volver al sendero. Cuando ya nos las dabamos felices ocurrio lo impredecible: empezo a llover.
La lluvia desato una pequeña crisis en el grupo. Benny, q no tenia ropa impermeable, queria parar y pasar la noche en un refugio en mitad de ninguna parte; Bodo y yo queriamos continuar. Habia dos argumentos: primero, ya estabamos mojados y segundo Bodo si parabamos alli Bodo yo alcanzaria su tren a Delhi a tiempo. No sin regañadients, el convoy sigio la marcha. Afortunadamente la lluvia ceso pronto, pero a ella le siguio la niebla que hacia el camino entre los bosques nepalis bastante inseguro. Asi, superando las condiciones climatologica y otros 750 metros de desnivel, alcanzamos Ghorepani alrededor de las 17:30.
Esa noche era la ultima que pasariamos en las montañas. Nos habria gustado poder celebrarlo pero estabamos demasiado cansados para hacerlo asi que nos fuimos a la cama a soñar con la gloria que nos aguardaba la mañana siguiente.
Annapurnas Day 11, 12 & 13: I Heart Hot Springs
● Wednesday, March 18, 2009
I've deciced to group days 11, 12 and 13 into one single post for two reasons: (1) they were pretty much the same and (2) I'm bored of being seated in front of the computer. During these three days we walked down the Kali Ghandaki river (nerdy tip: 'Kali' is the Hindu Goddess of destruction). We literally did walk over the river bed, which can get as wide as 1 kilometer in some sections. Doing this was mostly fun and urged us to take off our shoes now and then to cross the freezing waters.
This segment embodies some of the most beautiful villages of the circuit. To the previously described Kagbeni, one must add others such as Marpha (5*), Tukuche (4.5*), Ghasa (4.5*) and Tatopani (5+*). We spent the nights of D11, D12 and D13 in the last 3 villages. From these I would like to highlight the wonderful white facades of all of them, Tukutche's Dutch (?) Bakery and distillery (which produces all sorts of apple-derived goodies except for MacBooks and IPods <-terrible joke!); the cock battles and hot shower (+0.5*) of Ghasa; and the 'Iñaki-meets-the-Spring-again' of Tatopani. I would take some time to explain in depth why I liked Tatopani (1200 m) so much. For one, the stage to Tatopani gathers some very cool views over the valley and the highest waterfall of the circuit. Being back at a reasonable altitude -around 1500 meters- life started again in the form of blooming flowers, buzzing butterflies, and fertile rice fields. On top of all that, any trekker reaching Tatopani (in Nepali, 'hot waters') in the course of the Annapurna Circuit will experience one of the most pleasant sensations of his life: bathing in a hot spring. Oh my! that was good, yes, it felt good! I spent almost 4 hours in the 50ish degree hot water, listening to music and chatting with fellow trekkers (who by now had become some sort of nomad family). By the way, for those thinking: what a sissy boy!, check out the photos of Bodo and me bathing in the freezing river and eat that back!
In conclusion, we had reached the last quarter of the trek and we were ready for the last challenge, the cherry on the top of the cake, Poon Hill!
He decidido resumir los dias 11, 12 y 13 en un solo articulo por dos razones: (1) los tres dias se parecieron bastante y (2) ya empiezo a aburrirme de pasar horas delante del ordenador. Durante estos tres dias recorrimos el cauce del Kali Ghandaki que en esta epoca del año se encuentra semi-vacio. En la margen del rio es posible encontrar algunos de los pueblecitos mas bellos del recorrido: Marpha son sus casitas blancas, Tukuche con su destileria de brandy y sidra, Ghasa con su ducha caliente... en fin, una gozada. Asi hasta llegar a Tatopani que sin duda alguna es mi pueblo favorito de este tramo. Existen varios motivos, por una parte en los alrededores de Tatopani (1200 m) la naturaleza vuelve a la vida, mas si cabe en primavera. Ademas, en este segmento es posible obtener alguna de las mejores vistas del valle, incluida una casacada impresionante. Por ultimo, el argumento definitivo en pro de Tatopani (en nepali 'aguas calientes') es precisamente su mantial de agua volcanica.
Recuerdo pasar mas de 4 horas en aquel jacuzzi natural escuchando musica y charlando con los otros senderistas que ya por entonces se habian convetido en una especie de familia nomada.
En fin, un primor, habiamos alcanzado el ultimo cuarto del circuito en perfectas condiciones y estabamos a punto de abordar nuestro ultimo obstaculo, la guinda del pastel, ¡Poon Hill!
This segment embodies some of the most beautiful villages of the circuit. To the previously described Kagbeni, one must add others such as Marpha (5*), Tukuche (4.5*), Ghasa (4.5*) and Tatopani (5+*). We spent the nights of D11, D12 and D13 in the last 3 villages. From these I would like to highlight the wonderful white facades of all of them, Tukutche's Dutch (?) Bakery and distillery (which produces all sorts of apple-derived goodies except for MacBooks and IPods <-terrible joke!); the cock battles and hot shower (+0.5*) of Ghasa; and the 'Iñaki-meets-the-Spring-again' of Tatopani. I would take some time to explain in depth why I liked Tatopani (1200 m) so much. For one, the stage to Tatopani gathers some very cool views over the valley and the highest waterfall of the circuit. Being back at a reasonable altitude -around 1500 meters- life started again in the form of blooming flowers, buzzing butterflies, and fertile rice fields. On top of all that, any trekker reaching Tatopani (in Nepali, 'hot waters') in the course of the Annapurna Circuit will experience one of the most pleasant sensations of his life: bathing in a hot spring. Oh my! that was good, yes, it felt good! I spent almost 4 hours in the 50ish degree hot water, listening to music and chatting with fellow trekkers (who by now had become some sort of nomad family). By the way, for those thinking: what a sissy boy!, check out the photos of Bodo and me bathing in the freezing river and eat that back!
In conclusion, we had reached the last quarter of the trek and we were ready for the last challenge, the cherry on the top of the cake, Poon Hill!
He decidido resumir los dias 11, 12 y 13 en un solo articulo por dos razones: (1) los tres dias se parecieron bastante y (2) ya empiezo a aburrirme de pasar horas delante del ordenador. Durante estos tres dias recorrimos el cauce del Kali Ghandaki que en esta epoca del año se encuentra semi-vacio. En la margen del rio es posible encontrar algunos de los pueblecitos mas bellos del recorrido: Marpha son sus casitas blancas, Tukuche con su destileria de brandy y sidra, Ghasa con su ducha caliente... en fin, una gozada. Asi hasta llegar a Tatopani que sin duda alguna es mi pueblo favorito de este tramo. Existen varios motivos, por una parte en los alrededores de Tatopani (1200 m) la naturaleza vuelve a la vida, mas si cabe en primavera. Ademas, en este segmento es posible obtener alguna de las mejores vistas del valle, incluida una casacada impresionante. Por ultimo, el argumento definitivo en pro de Tatopani (en nepali 'aguas calientes') es precisamente su mantial de agua volcanica.
Recuerdo pasar mas de 4 horas en aquel jacuzzi natural escuchando musica y charlando con los otros senderistas que ya por entonces se habian convetido en una especie de familia nomada.
En fin, un primor, habiamos alcanzado el ultimo cuarto del circuito en perfectas condiciones y estabamos a punto de abordar nuestro ultimo obstaculo, la guinda del pastel, ¡Poon Hill!
Annapurnas Day 10: The God Ble$$ing
● Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Day D+1 started off with the coldest 33ºC shower of my life. No complains, I can hardly imagine any of those pioneers enjoying such a luxury back in the 70s. After what we had done the previous day we decided to take it easy that morning. A cultural visit to one of the local Gompas seemed enough activity for our screeching knees.
Some interesting facts about Muktinath for the nerdy audience. This village is considered sacred by both Hindus and Buddhists, who pilgrim to the same temples in perfect harmony. In one of these temples it is possible to spot a tiny eternal flame coming out of a bed of water which is said to be a gift from the Gods. I guess this version of the story sounded more plausible to the ancients than the whole volcanic theory. Furthermore, at the religious complex the visitor gets the chance to shower under 68 freezing-but-holy water spurts. Yet, if the pilgrims don't feel enough blessed with all that, they can purchase a 365-day praying service from a monk that guarantees full protection during that period of time at the very reasonable prize of 50000 Nepali rupee (CALL NOW!!! 555-MONK-2-GOD).
Still regretting not having hired the holy services we packed up and set off. We got our licenses stamped at the ACAP check post and left the village by 1 pm. The three hour trek to Kagbeni was a whole new story. Although we were going down, the roughness of the another-worldly landscape and the wind storm made the hike remarkably hard. I plugged-in my earphones and listened to some music to make the experience more enjoyable. By 4 pm we arrived to Kagbeni (2800) and checked in at the Yak Donald's hotel (that's what I call good marketing!). The extraordinary charm of Kagbeni is based on two solid pillars: the beauty of its architecture and the taste of their apple custard.
After a good dinner in good company we went bed at normal time (20h).
El dia D+1 comenzo con otra ducha fria. Para compensar la paliza del dia anterior decidimos tomarnoslo con calma y realizar una visita cultural al pueblo. Muktinath es un enclave de peregrinacion obligada para hindus y budistas. En el complejo religioso del pueblo se pueden encontrar cosas tan curiosas como una llama eterna que brota de una cama de agua, 68 chorros de agua bendita(-mente helada) donde los peregrinos pueden ducharse y un tenderete donde puedes contratar los servicios de un monje que rezara todas las mañanas por ti y los tuyos (50 eur/año, barato si se compara con cualquier seguro privado).
Tras la visita cultural reemprendimos la marcha. 3 horas de desierto (y otro paisaje nuevo, oiga!) y viento que nos trasladaron al viejo oeste. Asi llegamos a Kagbeni (2800 m), una preciosa localidad cuyo encanto se extiende desde la arquitectura local hasta el sabor de su tarta de manzana. Tras una memorable cena en el Yakdonalds puso punto y final al dia 10.
Some interesting facts about Muktinath for the nerdy audience. This village is considered sacred by both Hindus and Buddhists, who pilgrim to the same temples in perfect harmony. In one of these temples it is possible to spot a tiny eternal flame coming out of a bed of water which is said to be a gift from the Gods. I guess this version of the story sounded more plausible to the ancients than the whole volcanic theory. Furthermore, at the religious complex the visitor gets the chance to shower under 68 freezing-but-holy water spurts. Yet, if the pilgrims don't feel enough blessed with all that, they can purchase a 365-day praying service from a monk that guarantees full protection during that period of time at the very reasonable prize of 50000 Nepali rupee (CALL NOW!!! 555-MONK-2-GOD).
Still regretting not having hired the holy services we packed up and set off. We got our licenses stamped at the ACAP check post and left the village by 1 pm. The three hour trek to Kagbeni was a whole new story. Although we were going down, the roughness of the another-worldly landscape and the wind storm made the hike remarkably hard. I plugged-in my earphones and listened to some music to make the experience more enjoyable. By 4 pm we arrived to Kagbeni (2800) and checked in at the Yak Donald's hotel (that's what I call good marketing!). The extraordinary charm of Kagbeni is based on two solid pillars: the beauty of its architecture and the taste of their apple custard.
After a good dinner in good company we went bed at normal time (20h).
El dia D+1 comenzo con otra ducha fria. Para compensar la paliza del dia anterior decidimos tomarnoslo con calma y realizar una visita cultural al pueblo. Muktinath es un enclave de peregrinacion obligada para hindus y budistas. En el complejo religioso del pueblo se pueden encontrar cosas tan curiosas como una llama eterna que brota de una cama de agua, 68 chorros de agua bendita(-mente helada) donde los peregrinos pueden ducharse y un tenderete donde puedes contratar los servicios de un monje que rezara todas las mañanas por ti y los tuyos (50 eur/año, barato si se compara con cualquier seguro privado).
Tras la visita cultural reemprendimos la marcha. 3 horas de desierto (y otro paisaje nuevo, oiga!) y viento que nos trasladaron al viejo oeste. Asi llegamos a Kagbeni (2800 m), una preciosa localidad cuyo encanto se extiende desde la arquitectura local hasta el sabor de su tarta de manzana. Tras una memorable cena en el Yakdonalds puso punto y final al dia 10.
Annapurnas Day 9: The D Day
● Monday, March 16, 2009
Alea iacta est ("the die has been cast" you illiterates!). That's what I thought when I got up from my bed after barely 3 hours of sleep. Nerves, cold, AMS or perhaps all of them together didn't let us sleep the night before D Day. It was 4am when I got out of my sleeping bag fully dressed. I put a second layer of gloves and socks on and visited the toilet hoping to wash my light headache with some cold water. No luck, the water in the bucket sitting next to the crap hole was completely frozen.
Bodo, Benny were already in the dinning room when I entered the dark space. I was surprised to find no one else there, apparently some expeditions had already left while others where expected to do it around 5am. In contrast to what most people would think, that morning we didn't order a highly nutritive breakfast. Previously we had experienced that at high altitude heavy intakes consume more time and energy to digest than they actually provide. However, I thought that the occasion well deserved having one of my precious and limited fixes of Cola Cao. Although my magic powder dissolved in the hot milk as it has always done since I was a child. That sight was unable to make me feel home, the chapati resting aside transported my mind to were I really was.
We left Phedi shortly after five o'clock with the moon crowning the clear Himalayan sky and enlightening the narrow track. The silence of the trek was only broken by the arrhythmic sequence of steps of our convoy. Sixty minutes of disheartening climb to High camp (4850 m) put us in our place. One of us was having an especially tough time which urged continuous breaks during which I had to hit my toes with my beloved stick to ensure that I could still feel them. The group was making slow progress when a sudden scream awoke my sleepy brain. It was Benny, his nose was bleeding! Although none of us wasn't completely sure we guessed that the haemorrhage had to be the result of the cold air and the accelerated nose breathing. Trusting on this we proceeded to High Camp. Once in Camp we asked some local fellow to ensured that it wasn't serious, he gave us the green light.
Ready for the second round? I shouted. After taking a few pictures we resumed the walk. Then something we had been waiting for finally happened: the sun rose over the snowed peaks! Feeling the sun warming my back was like plugging a laptop to the power supply; my legs no longer had to work half speed, now they were ready to eat that goddamn mountain! My pace increased which resulted into me gaining meters over the Germans. I used my waitings to take some of the most breathtaking photos and videos of the trek (for which I would like to apologise beforehand!). During the following two hours I tried to encourage my teammates by telling them that every post that appeared beside the trek pointed a 100 m section, which had to mean that we were close to summit. I was already running out of arguments when we finally saw it, the prayers' flags! the Throng La! Just like the gentle cyclists do before crossing the finish line, we took hands and proceeded to take the last steps to reach the commemorative board. We made it! yes, we made it! Five thousand four hundred and sixteen meters (5416 m), that's how high one must climb to escape the Marsyangdi valley. Time for congratulations, photos and bullshitting, lots of bullshitting, we deserved it after all!
The freezing cold wind shortened the stay on the summit. Bodo was having problems in his fingers which propitiated that the two Germans left soon. I stayed a little bit longer enjoying the moment and then headed the west face of the pass.
At that point no of us -at least not me- was aware of the fact that the way down was going to be as hard as the way up. Four endless hours to Muktinath during which we descended 1600 m of rough terrain infested with irregular stones that threatened my bare ankles (my trekking shoes lack specific support fact that I tried to counteract with some tight dressing). In an attempt to ease the descent I overtook the Germans and set a moderate to severe pace that should take us to Charabu (4230 m) in less than three hours. And that -2h45- is what it took us to reach our first warm cup of tea of the second leg of the circuit. To avoid overrelaxing our muscles, we set off for our final destination within 15 minutes. Another hour of hike to arrive to Muktinath (3800 m) by 2pm, nine hours after leaving Thorung Phedi.
We spent the rest of the day recharging our batteries by plugging our bodies to the fire place of the 'Bob Marley' lodge. Although we still had half of the circuit ahead I remember having a smile in my face before closing my eyes that night, I had made it, I had climbed over five thousand meters!
¡La suerte esta echada!, pense cuando me levante de la cama la madrugada del dia D. Eran las 4 y apenas habiamos dormido por culpa de los nervios, el frio y el dolor de cabeza. Mi intento de quitarme la caraja a base de agua fria sucumbio ante el bloque de hielo que encontre donde la noche anterior habia agua. Me dirigi al refugio donde Benny y Bodo me esperaban sorprendidos de no encontrar otros trekkers alli. Al parecer un grupo ya habia partido hacia la cima mientras que otros debian hacerlo un poco mas tarde, a las 5.
Trate de reconfortarme en mi tazon de colacao pero esta vez ni si quiera eso me devolveria a casa, el frio y el pan indio que escoltaban mi pocion me trasportaban de vuelta a los Himalayas. Asi, deayunados y con una segunda capa de ropa encima de la que habia usado para dormir, iniciamos la marcha. Los primeros 40 minutos del dia D, los mas duros del trek sin duda alguna, nos pusieron en nuestro sitio. Uno de los alemanes lo estaba pasandolo especialmente mal por lo que los otros dos debiamos parar cada medio minuto a esperarle. Durante estos parones yo me golpeaba los dedos de los pies con mi amado palo para comprobar que todavia los sentia. Poco a poco, la marcha asincrona de nuestros pasos se habria paso lentamente en la montaña. De repente oi un grito, era Benny, ¡estaba sangrando por la nariz!. Mientras fuese la nariz no habia problema, posiblemente se debiese al aire frio y a la hiperactividad de sus fosas nasales, otra cosa seria si fuesen sus oidos los que sangrasen... En fin, reintauramos la marcha y procedimos hasta High Camp (4850 m). En High Camp nos cercioramos de que no habia problema con la hemorragia, sacamos algunas fotos y continuamos la marcha. Nuestro animo se encontraba bastante alto (unos 4850 m), pero en cifras relativas este se encontraba literalmente por los tobillos. Asi hasta que sucedio lo que tenia que suceder, ¡el sol se abrio paso en el valle! Sentir el calor del astro rey sobre mi espalda fue como enchufar el portatil a la corriente electrica, mi cuerpo abandono el estado de semiibernacion para pasar a trabajar a pleno rendimiento. Sin quererlo ganaba metros sobre los alemanes, lo que me obligaba a sacar fotos y videos (por los cual pido disculpas de ante mano). Asi, liderando y motivando al equipo llegamos hasta el segmento final. Un paisaje de otro mundo que se rompio cuando vimos las banderas que indican la llegada a la cima. Como los caballeros de la bici nos dimos la mano y procedimos a dar los ultimos pasos hasta la placa conmemorativa. ¡lo habiamos logrado, habiamos coronado el Throng La! Alli, a 5416 m se desato la locura, fotos, abrazos y sobretodo muchas gilipolleces saliendo de mi boca tanto en ingles como en castellano. El frio obligo a los alemanes a abandonar la cima pero yo me quede un rato disfrutando del momento.
Cuando enfilabamos la cara oeste del Thorung ninguno eramos conscientes de que la bajada iba a ser tan dura o mas que la subida. 4 horas para descender 1800 metros de terraplenes atestados de piedras irregulares que amenazaban mis tobillos (poniendo a prueba el vendaje preventivo que mi hermano me enseño). Sin comerlo ni beberlo me puse lider del convoy, al cual guie hasta Charabu (4230 m) en un nada despreciable tiempo de 2:45 horas. Alli, un te y carretera! antes de que los musculos se relajasen y se nos subieran las bolas. Serian sobre las 2 de la tarde cuando culminamos nuestras nueve horas de caminata en Muktinath (3800 m). Alli, en el refuguio Bob Marley, nos pasamos el resto del dia recargando batterias a base de hamburguesas de yak al calor de la hoguera.
Sin duda alguna el 16 de Marzo de 2009 sera una fecha que dificilmente olvidare. Pocas experiencias me han dejado tan buen sabor de boca como escalar por encima de los 5000 m, pero no era el momento de vender la piel del oso, todavia nos quedaba la mitad del recorrido hasta completar el circuito.
Bodo, Benny were already in the dinning room when I entered the dark space. I was surprised to find no one else there, apparently some expeditions had already left while others where expected to do it around 5am. In contrast to what most people would think, that morning we didn't order a highly nutritive breakfast. Previously we had experienced that at high altitude heavy intakes consume more time and energy to digest than they actually provide. However, I thought that the occasion well deserved having one of my precious and limited fixes of Cola Cao. Although my magic powder dissolved in the hot milk as it has always done since I was a child. That sight was unable to make me feel home, the chapati resting aside transported my mind to were I really was.
We left Phedi shortly after five o'clock with the moon crowning the clear Himalayan sky and enlightening the narrow track. The silence of the trek was only broken by the arrhythmic sequence of steps of our convoy. Sixty minutes of disheartening climb to High camp (4850 m) put us in our place. One of us was having an especially tough time which urged continuous breaks during which I had to hit my toes with my beloved stick to ensure that I could still feel them. The group was making slow progress when a sudden scream awoke my sleepy brain. It was Benny, his nose was bleeding! Although none of us wasn't completely sure we guessed that the haemorrhage had to be the result of the cold air and the accelerated nose breathing. Trusting on this we proceeded to High Camp. Once in Camp we asked some local fellow to ensured that it wasn't serious, he gave us the green light.
Ready for the second round? I shouted. After taking a few pictures we resumed the walk. Then something we had been waiting for finally happened: the sun rose over the snowed peaks! Feeling the sun warming my back was like plugging a laptop to the power supply; my legs no longer had to work half speed, now they were ready to eat that goddamn mountain! My pace increased which resulted into me gaining meters over the Germans. I used my waitings to take some of the most breathtaking photos and videos of the trek (for which I would like to apologise beforehand!). During the following two hours I tried to encourage my teammates by telling them that every post that appeared beside the trek pointed a 100 m section, which had to mean that we were close to summit. I was already running out of arguments when we finally saw it, the prayers' flags! the Throng La! Just like the gentle cyclists do before crossing the finish line, we took hands and proceeded to take the last steps to reach the commemorative board. We made it! yes, we made it! Five thousand four hundred and sixteen meters (5416 m), that's how high one must climb to escape the Marsyangdi valley. Time for congratulations, photos and bullshitting, lots of bullshitting, we deserved it after all!
The freezing cold wind shortened the stay on the summit. Bodo was having problems in his fingers which propitiated that the two Germans left soon. I stayed a little bit longer enjoying the moment and then headed the west face of the pass.
At that point no of us -at least not me- was aware of the fact that the way down was going to be as hard as the way up. Four endless hours to Muktinath during which we descended 1600 m of rough terrain infested with irregular stones that threatened my bare ankles (my trekking shoes lack specific support fact that I tried to counteract with some tight dressing). In an attempt to ease the descent I overtook the Germans and set a moderate to severe pace that should take us to Charabu (4230 m) in less than three hours. And that -2h45- is what it took us to reach our first warm cup of tea of the second leg of the circuit. To avoid overrelaxing our muscles, we set off for our final destination within 15 minutes. Another hour of hike to arrive to Muktinath (3800 m) by 2pm, nine hours after leaving Thorung Phedi.
We spent the rest of the day recharging our batteries by plugging our bodies to the fire place of the 'Bob Marley' lodge. Although we still had half of the circuit ahead I remember having a smile in my face before closing my eyes that night, I had made it, I had climbed over five thousand meters!
¡La suerte esta echada!, pense cuando me levante de la cama la madrugada del dia D. Eran las 4 y apenas habiamos dormido por culpa de los nervios, el frio y el dolor de cabeza. Mi intento de quitarme la caraja a base de agua fria sucumbio ante el bloque de hielo que encontre donde la noche anterior habia agua. Me dirigi al refugio donde Benny y Bodo me esperaban sorprendidos de no encontrar otros trekkers alli. Al parecer un grupo ya habia partido hacia la cima mientras que otros debian hacerlo un poco mas tarde, a las 5.
Trate de reconfortarme en mi tazon de colacao pero esta vez ni si quiera eso me devolveria a casa, el frio y el pan indio que escoltaban mi pocion me trasportaban de vuelta a los Himalayas. Asi, deayunados y con una segunda capa de ropa encima de la que habia usado para dormir, iniciamos la marcha. Los primeros 40 minutos del dia D, los mas duros del trek sin duda alguna, nos pusieron en nuestro sitio. Uno de los alemanes lo estaba pasandolo especialmente mal por lo que los otros dos debiamos parar cada medio minuto a esperarle. Durante estos parones yo me golpeaba los dedos de los pies con mi amado palo para comprobar que todavia los sentia. Poco a poco, la marcha asincrona de nuestros pasos se habria paso lentamente en la montaña. De repente oi un grito, era Benny, ¡estaba sangrando por la nariz!. Mientras fuese la nariz no habia problema, posiblemente se debiese al aire frio y a la hiperactividad de sus fosas nasales, otra cosa seria si fuesen sus oidos los que sangrasen... En fin, reintauramos la marcha y procedimos hasta High Camp (4850 m). En High Camp nos cercioramos de que no habia problema con la hemorragia, sacamos algunas fotos y continuamos la marcha. Nuestro animo se encontraba bastante alto (unos 4850 m), pero en cifras relativas este se encontraba literalmente por los tobillos. Asi hasta que sucedio lo que tenia que suceder, ¡el sol se abrio paso en el valle! Sentir el calor del astro rey sobre mi espalda fue como enchufar el portatil a la corriente electrica, mi cuerpo abandono el estado de semiibernacion para pasar a trabajar a pleno rendimiento. Sin quererlo ganaba metros sobre los alemanes, lo que me obligaba a sacar fotos y videos (por los cual pido disculpas de ante mano). Asi, liderando y motivando al equipo llegamos hasta el segmento final. Un paisaje de otro mundo que se rompio cuando vimos las banderas que indican la llegada a la cima. Como los caballeros de la bici nos dimos la mano y procedimos a dar los ultimos pasos hasta la placa conmemorativa. ¡lo habiamos logrado, habiamos coronado el Throng La! Alli, a 5416 m se desato la locura, fotos, abrazos y sobretodo muchas gilipolleces saliendo de mi boca tanto en ingles como en castellano. El frio obligo a los alemanes a abandonar la cima pero yo me quede un rato disfrutando del momento.
Cuando enfilabamos la cara oeste del Thorung ninguno eramos conscientes de que la bajada iba a ser tan dura o mas que la subida. 4 horas para descender 1800 metros de terraplenes atestados de piedras irregulares que amenazaban mis tobillos (poniendo a prueba el vendaje preventivo que mi hermano me enseño). Sin comerlo ni beberlo me puse lider del convoy, al cual guie hasta Charabu (4230 m) en un nada despreciable tiempo de 2:45 horas. Alli, un te y carretera! antes de que los musculos se relajasen y se nos subieran las bolas. Serian sobre las 2 de la tarde cuando culminamos nuestras nueve horas de caminata en Muktinath (3800 m). Alli, en el refuguio Bob Marley, nos pasamos el resto del dia recargando batterias a base de hamburguesas de yak al calor de la hoguera.
Sin duda alguna el 16 de Marzo de 2009 sera una fecha que dificilmente olvidare. Pocas experiencias me han dejado tan buen sabor de boca como escalar por encima de los 5000 m, pero no era el momento de vender la piel del oso, todavia nos quedaba la mitad del recorrido hasta completar el circuito.
Pics'n'vids: Stupidity Strikes On D Day
● Monday, March 16, 2009Reader Discretion Is Advised
● Sunday, March 15, 2009
To avoid forgetting things I'm gonna launch several posts of 'Chroniques of the Annapurnas' in one go. To keep the page in order only 4 of them will be shown at a time which means that you will have to click on 'OLDER POSTS' at the end of the site if you don't want to miss any chapter.
Enjoy!
Para hacerlo mas facil para mi he decidido escribir y publicar varios capitulos de mis Cronicas de los Annapurnas a la vez. Si no os quereis perder ningun capitulo de la historia debereis hacer clic sobre 'OLDER POSTS' al final de la pagina para ver los articulos anteriores.
Disfrutar!
Enjoy!
Para hacerlo mas facil para mi he decidido escribir y publicar varios capitulos de mis Cronicas de los Annapurnas a la vez. Si no os quereis perder ningun capitulo de la historia debereis hacer clic sobre 'OLDER POSTS' al final de la pagina para ver los articulos anteriores.
Disfrutar!
Day 8: Road To The Thorung
● Sunday, March 15, 2009
Day 8 was another gap day. After the late night show at the Snow Land and a rather short sleep, the three of us felt quite tired even before starting walking. No pain, no gain! we had to reach Thorung Phedi (4450 m) as soon as possible to get ready for the last section of the climb.
During the walk to Phedi (in Nepali 'foot') I received two moderate warnings about the AMS. In one of the first climbs of the morning I could feel how I needed to inhale and exhale at a much higher rate than normally. Besides, my heart beat inside my chest as though it was going to explode (the lack of butterflies in my stomach ruled out the possibility of being suffering from a sudden crush in one of my trekking mates, lol). The second warning was much more serious. During a break for drinking we saw an Asian-looking trekker being transported down the hill on a mule. The mid-aged man was completely knocked out. He behaved as a zombie when the porter asked to get off the mule. That really was a reminder that things were serious up there!
Once we had overcome the spooky apparition we continued our way to Phedi. We reached our destination by 2 pm. In Phedi we joined some of the trekkers that we had met before plus a bunch of crazy Canadians who were spending their third day in town. They were waiting for a helicopter that was supposed to take one of their friends -not feeling very well- back to Manang. They didn't seem to care much, actually we noticed them smoking some joints while the rest of us had difficulties to even take a d*mp! We went bed even earlier that evening (7 pm) since next morning we were to face the hardest stage of the trek.
El octavo dia fue otro de esos dias confusos e ininterminalbles. Fue durante esta jornada que recibi los primeros y unicos avisos sobre el mal de montaña. Por una parte, en una de las primeras subidas de la mañana me di cuenta de que tanto a mi como a mis compañeros nos faltaba el aliento para subir cuestas que otros dias nos merendabamos con patatas. Mas tarde, durante un descanso nos vimos confrontados con un hombre asiatico de mediana edad que estaba siendo acarreado montaña abajo sobre una mula. El hombre estaba completamente grogi, era incapaz de andar ni articular palabra. Superada la primera impresion, decidimos continuar nuestra marcha hasta el pie de la cima, Thorung Phedi (4450 m). Alli nos reunimos con el resto de senderistas que habiamos conocidos y algunos nuevos, como unos canadienses que llevaban ya tres dias alli y que se permitian el lujo de fumar porros mientras a otros nos costaba tremendo esfuerzo ¡hasta plantar un pino!
During the walk to Phedi (in Nepali 'foot') I received two moderate warnings about the AMS. In one of the first climbs of the morning I could feel how I needed to inhale and exhale at a much higher rate than normally. Besides, my heart beat inside my chest as though it was going to explode (the lack of butterflies in my stomach ruled out the possibility of being suffering from a sudden crush in one of my trekking mates, lol). The second warning was much more serious. During a break for drinking we saw an Asian-looking trekker being transported down the hill on a mule. The mid-aged man was completely knocked out. He behaved as a zombie when the porter asked to get off the mule. That really was a reminder that things were serious up there!
Once we had overcome the spooky apparition we continued our way to Phedi. We reached our destination by 2 pm. In Phedi we joined some of the trekkers that we had met before plus a bunch of crazy Canadians who were spending their third day in town. They were waiting for a helicopter that was supposed to take one of their friends -not feeling very well- back to Manang. They didn't seem to care much, actually we noticed them smoking some joints while the rest of us had difficulties to even take a d*mp! We went bed even earlier that evening (7 pm) since next morning we were to face the hardest stage of the trek.
El octavo dia fue otro de esos dias confusos e ininterminalbles. Fue durante esta jornada que recibi los primeros y unicos avisos sobre el mal de montaña. Por una parte, en una de las primeras subidas de la mañana me di cuenta de que tanto a mi como a mis compañeros nos faltaba el aliento para subir cuestas que otros dias nos merendabamos con patatas. Mas tarde, durante un descanso nos vimos confrontados con un hombre asiatico de mediana edad que estaba siendo acarreado montaña abajo sobre una mula. El hombre estaba completamente grogi, era incapaz de andar ni articular palabra. Superada la primera impresion, decidimos continuar nuestra marcha hasta el pie de la cima, Thorung Phedi (4450 m). Alli nos reunimos con el resto de senderistas que habiamos conocidos y algunos nuevos, como unos canadienses que llevaban ya tres dias alli y que se permitian el lujo de fumar porros mientras a otros nos costaba tremendo esfuerzo ¡hasta plantar un pino!
Annapurnas Day 7: Yakpot!
● Saturday, March 14, 2009
During the acclimatisation day we were told that each one of us should drink at least 5 liters of water per day to prevent dehydration. The constant traffic of trekkers visiting the toilet (due to this psychosis for drinking) and the AMS itself caused that most of us had barely 4 or 5 hours of sleep from night 6 on.
Maybe because of this, the only thing that I remember about Day 7 is a 3-hour pilgrimage to Yak Kharkha (4050 m) powered by the beans that I had for breakfast. The land became rough, and the villages literally extinguished. A special mention deserves the lodge were we spent the first night above 4000 meters. Did you ever wonder what would happen if one day all the women of some remote settlement in the Himalayas left their husbands without notice? well, that scenario has a name: Snow Land. Snow Land is a very rudimentary guest house (more of a shelter, I'd say) run by a bunch of crazy Nepali men in Yak Kharkha. When the sun goes down (also before, I guess) there is no much to do there, so basically the lonely fellows kill their time drinking, smoking and playing cards. The consequences of this behaviour are as funny as unpredictable. Let's say that some random trekkers order some macaroni for dinner; well, this might very well end up with a drunk cook setting the kitchen on fire. What if another random visitor dared to order some garlic soup? then the drunkest men would reply with a sonorous burp before serving some unpeeled garlic into boiling water. In conclusion, it was a very entertaining night!
Tal vez fuesen las costantes visitas al baño (debidas a la pseudo-paranoya sobre beber para evitar la deshidratacion) o tal vez los sintomas leves del mal de montaña, pero el caso es que del dia 6 en adelante nadie durmi mas de 4 o 5 horas. Por ello no recuerdo mucho sobre el dia 7, solo una caminata de 3 horas hasta Yak Kharka (4050 m) aguilizada por las alubias que tome para desayunar. ¿Alguna vez os habeis preguntado que pasaria si un dia todas las mujeres de una aldea remota de los Himalayas abandonasen a sus maridos sin previo aviso? Bien, ese es el caso de Yak Kharka. El refugio donde pernoctamos en Yak Kharta estaba regentado por un grupeto de solterones que mataban las horas bebiendo cerveza de arroz, fumando y jugando a cartas. Las consecuencias de tan maño equipo son tan divertidas como impredecibles. Pongamos, por ejemplo, el caso de que a alguien se le ocurre pedir macarrones para cenar. Dicha prerrogativa bien pudiera acabar con la cocina en llamas. Imaginemos ahora el supuesto de que algun montañero se decanta por sopa de ajo para cenar, pues bien, dicha demanda se saldaria con unos ajos sin pelar nadando en agua hirviendo. ¡En conclusion, noche interesante en Yak Kharta!
Maybe because of this, the only thing that I remember about Day 7 is a 3-hour pilgrimage to Yak Kharkha (4050 m) powered by the beans that I had for breakfast. The land became rough, and the villages literally extinguished. A special mention deserves the lodge were we spent the first night above 4000 meters. Did you ever wonder what would happen if one day all the women of some remote settlement in the Himalayas left their husbands without notice? well, that scenario has a name: Snow Land. Snow Land is a very rudimentary guest house (more of a shelter, I'd say) run by a bunch of crazy Nepali men in Yak Kharkha. When the sun goes down (also before, I guess) there is no much to do there, so basically the lonely fellows kill their time drinking, smoking and playing cards. The consequences of this behaviour are as funny as unpredictable. Let's say that some random trekkers order some macaroni for dinner; well, this might very well end up with a drunk cook setting the kitchen on fire. What if another random visitor dared to order some garlic soup? then the drunkest men would reply with a sonorous burp before serving some unpeeled garlic into boiling water. In conclusion, it was a very entertaining night!
Tal vez fuesen las costantes visitas al baño (debidas a la pseudo-paranoya sobre beber para evitar la deshidratacion) o tal vez los sintomas leves del mal de montaña, pero el caso es que del dia 6 en adelante nadie durmi mas de 4 o 5 horas. Por ello no recuerdo mucho sobre el dia 7, solo una caminata de 3 horas hasta Yak Kharka (4050 m) aguilizada por las alubias que tome para desayunar. ¿Alguna vez os habeis preguntado que pasaria si un dia todas las mujeres de una aldea remota de los Himalayas abandonasen a sus maridos sin previo aviso? Bien, ese es el caso de Yak Kharka. El refugio donde pernoctamos en Yak Kharta estaba regentado por un grupeto de solterones que mataban las horas bebiendo cerveza de arroz, fumando y jugando a cartas. Las consecuencias de tan maño equipo son tan divertidas como impredecibles. Pongamos, por ejemplo, el caso de que a alguien se le ocurre pedir macarrones para cenar. Dicha prerrogativa bien pudiera acabar con la cocina en llamas. Imaginemos ahora el supuesto de que algun montañero se decanta por sopa de ajo para cenar, pues bien, dicha demanda se saldaria con unos ajos sin pelar nadando en agua hirviendo. ¡En conclusion, noche interesante en Yak Kharta!
Annapurnas Day 6: Into Thin Air
● Friday, March 13, 2009
Our only goal for the sixth day wasn't reaching certain village, far from it on day 6 we had to get our systems acclimatised. Acclimatised to what? some may wonder; to altitude, of course. On day 6 we realized that things were actually more serious that they seemed. Don't get me wrong, the majority of the Annapurna Circuit can be done by almost any sporty person but this doesn't mean that there is no danger involved.
I won't go too deep in details but, in brief, there are two major risks when one gets over 3000 meters. For one, nearly 65% of the people would experience mild symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness. This means that -due to the low atmosferic pressure and consquent deficit of oxygen in the blood stream- those people are likely to suffer light headaches, difficulties to sleep and dizziness. Up to this point there is nothing to worry about, one must listen to their body and don't go any further; remaining at the same altitude for one or two days would solve the problem. BUT, if someone is stupid enough to continue climbing the Mild AMS can derive into HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) or HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). This is serious business, every year one or two people die up there because of them.
Just to chill this post again, I will add a funny sympthom of AMS that all us developed during the trek. The low pressure in the atmosfere facilitates that the gasses in the intestines expand beyond usual levels which will eventually -and unavoidably- yield a very recomforting turbo boost propelling mountaneers up the hill!
Back to Day 6, morning cultural visit to Bhraga; half an hour trek to Manang (3540 m); acclimatization trip to nearby hill with views over the lake and glacier; and to complete the day a movie at the local cinema. Oh! yesh, there is a movie theater in Manang, the most picturesque I've ever been to (don't miss the yak carpet in the pictures). We watched 'Into Thin Air' a movie about an expedition to Mount Everest gone bad that added some 'anti-cool' to the already 'tense' scenario.
El sexto dia de expedicion tenia un objetivo unico: aclimatar nuestros cuerpos para evitar el mal de altura. No voy a entrar en detalles pero basicamente cuando se superan los 3000 m de altura uno esta expuesto a lo que se conoce como Mal de Altura o Montaña. Las bajas presiones y el deficit de oxigeno en el aire pueden provocar mareos, dolor leve de cabeza y dificultades para conciliar el sueño. Hasta aqui no hay que alarmarse, simplemente hay que escuchar al organismo y no hacer estupideces. Si se detectan estos sintomas se debe permanecer a la altura actual e incluso descender unos metros -si es posible- hasta que el cuerpo se acostumbre (1 o 2 dias). El problema viene cuando uno desoye a su organismo y decide seguir escalando. En ese caso el Mal de Altura puede desembocar en Mal Agudo de Montaña, en dos vertientes: la que conlleva hacia un edema cerebral y la que pudiera ocasionar un edema pulmonar. Esto no es ninguna tonteria, una o dos personas mueren todos los años en el circuito a causa de ellas. En fin, para relajar el ambiente añadire que la mayoria de trekkers, incluido un servidor, sufrimos una curiosa variante del Mal Leve de Montaña que ocasiona que nuestros intestinos se inflen a raiz de las bajas presiones lo cual resulta inevitablemente en un incesante flujo de ventosidades que, junto a mi amado palo, nos habria de propulsar a lo alto de la montaña.
De vuelta al dia 6 dire que basicamente se resume en una visita cultural a Bhraga seguida de un paseo hasta Manang y una excursion a una colina aledaña desde donde disfrutamos de vistas sobre el lago y el glaciar. Por ultimo, matamos el tiempo viendo una peli en el cine local (cosa de otro mundo), mas concretamente vimos 'Into Thin Air', una peli sobre una expedicion al Everest con final dramatico que añadio un poco de emocion al ya de por si enrarecido ambiente.
I won't go too deep in details but, in brief, there are two major risks when one gets over 3000 meters. For one, nearly 65% of the people would experience mild symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness. This means that -due to the low atmosferic pressure and consquent deficit of oxygen in the blood stream- those people are likely to suffer light headaches, difficulties to sleep and dizziness. Up to this point there is nothing to worry about, one must listen to their body and don't go any further; remaining at the same altitude for one or two days would solve the problem. BUT, if someone is stupid enough to continue climbing the Mild AMS can derive into HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) or HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). This is serious business, every year one or two people die up there because of them.
Just to chill this post again, I will add a funny sympthom of AMS that all us developed during the trek. The low pressure in the atmosfere facilitates that the gasses in the intestines expand beyond usual levels which will eventually -and unavoidably- yield a very recomforting turbo boost propelling mountaneers up the hill!
Back to Day 6, morning cultural visit to Bhraga; half an hour trek to Manang (3540 m); acclimatization trip to nearby hill with views over the lake and glacier; and to complete the day a movie at the local cinema. Oh! yesh, there is a movie theater in Manang, the most picturesque I've ever been to (don't miss the yak carpet in the pictures). We watched 'Into Thin Air' a movie about an expedition to Mount Everest gone bad that added some 'anti-cool' to the already 'tense' scenario.
El sexto dia de expedicion tenia un objetivo unico: aclimatar nuestros cuerpos para evitar el mal de altura. No voy a entrar en detalles pero basicamente cuando se superan los 3000 m de altura uno esta expuesto a lo que se conoce como Mal de Altura o Montaña. Las bajas presiones y el deficit de oxigeno en el aire pueden provocar mareos, dolor leve de cabeza y dificultades para conciliar el sueño. Hasta aqui no hay que alarmarse, simplemente hay que escuchar al organismo y no hacer estupideces. Si se detectan estos sintomas se debe permanecer a la altura actual e incluso descender unos metros -si es posible- hasta que el cuerpo se acostumbre (1 o 2 dias). El problema viene cuando uno desoye a su organismo y decide seguir escalando. En ese caso el Mal de Altura puede desembocar en Mal Agudo de Montaña, en dos vertientes: la que conlleva hacia un edema cerebral y la que pudiera ocasionar un edema pulmonar. Esto no es ninguna tonteria, una o dos personas mueren todos los años en el circuito a causa de ellas. En fin, para relajar el ambiente añadire que la mayoria de trekkers, incluido un servidor, sufrimos una curiosa variante del Mal Leve de Montaña que ocasiona que nuestros intestinos se inflen a raiz de las bajas presiones lo cual resulta inevitablemente en un incesante flujo de ventosidades que, junto a mi amado palo, nos habria de propulsar a lo alto de la montaña.
De vuelta al dia 6 dire que basicamente se resume en una visita cultural a Bhraga seguida de un paseo hasta Manang y una excursion a una colina aledaña desde donde disfrutamos de vistas sobre el lago y el glaciar. Por ultimo, matamos el tiempo viendo una peli en el cine local (cosa de otro mundo), mas concretamente vimos 'Into Thin Air', una peli sobre una expedicion al Everest con final dramatico que añadio un poco de emocion al ya de por si enrarecido ambiente.
Annapurnas Day 5: The Three Giants
● Thursday, March 12, 2009
The fifth day was, undoubtedly, the best day for pictures of the whole trek. On the one hand the sun shone in a spotless sky like it only does in early spring. On the other hand, a family of still giants -Annapurna I, his brother Annapurna II and cousin Gangapurna- escorted our walk throughout the day.
Averaging 11 years per leg makes the choice between an easy (i.e. boring) trek to the next town and a hard (i.e. exciting) one very easy. Consequently we chose to take the hardest and longest way to Bhraga (3450 m) despite the 500 m of steep climb. Having done it, no one us would ever regret it; when I look at the pictures now the landscapes seem even greater than I remembered them. Every breath, every step and every drop of sweat that we left in those slopes was rewarded with a stunning view. Peaks, lakes, ice-falls, glaciers... what a spectacle!
Once again, the second half of the day became a separate day in itself. The long walk through the dusty path that leaded to Bhraga seemed endless, probably because of the extra energy burned in the morning. Yet, it was this afternoon when I took a picture than will soon become my father's next wallpaper and just that makes all the effort worthwhile.
We arrived to our destination by 5pm, broken but happy, even happier when we discovered that this time there REALLY was a hot shower!
El quito dia de expedicion fue el mejor, sin duda alguna, para las fotos. Con un equipo que promediaba 11 años por pierna, la decision entre una ruta facil y austera u otra dura pero espectacular se antojaba sencilla. Asi pues, nos decantamos por la segunda y vaya que si merecio la pena. Cada gota de sudor que dejamos en aquellas laderas (500 m de subida en 40 minutos) fue recompensada con vistas que de por si solas ya valian una visita a Nepal.
Los tres gigantes, Annapurna I, II y Gangapurna; nuestro compañero infatigable, el rio; los lagos, los glaciares, los pueblos deserticos... ¡indescriptible!. La tarde se nos hizo dura, posiblemente por el desgaste de la mañana. No obstante esa tarde tome una foto que en breve -sino me equivoco- se convertira en el fondo de escritorio del ordenador de mi padre (y probablemente junto a el, el de mi primo), lo cual en si mismo es suficiente recompensa para mi.
Asi, cansados pero contentos llegamos a Bhraga (3450 m). Mas contentos aun cuando nos enteramos de que esta vez SI, ¡habia una ducha caliente!
Averaging 11 years per leg makes the choice between an easy (i.e. boring) trek to the next town and a hard (i.e. exciting) one very easy. Consequently we chose to take the hardest and longest way to Bhraga (3450 m) despite the 500 m of steep climb. Having done it, no one us would ever regret it; when I look at the pictures now the landscapes seem even greater than I remembered them. Every breath, every step and every drop of sweat that we left in those slopes was rewarded with a stunning view. Peaks, lakes, ice-falls, glaciers... what a spectacle!
Once again, the second half of the day became a separate day in itself. The long walk through the dusty path that leaded to Bhraga seemed endless, probably because of the extra energy burned in the morning. Yet, it was this afternoon when I took a picture than will soon become my father's next wallpaper and just that makes all the effort worthwhile.
We arrived to our destination by 5pm, broken but happy, even happier when we discovered that this time there REALLY was a hot shower!
El quito dia de expedicion fue el mejor, sin duda alguna, para las fotos. Con un equipo que promediaba 11 años por pierna, la decision entre una ruta facil y austera u otra dura pero espectacular se antojaba sencilla. Asi pues, nos decantamos por la segunda y vaya que si merecio la pena. Cada gota de sudor que dejamos en aquellas laderas (500 m de subida en 40 minutos) fue recompensada con vistas que de por si solas ya valian una visita a Nepal.
Los tres gigantes, Annapurna I, II y Gangapurna; nuestro compañero infatigable, el rio; los lagos, los glaciares, los pueblos deserticos... ¡indescriptible!. La tarde se nos hizo dura, posiblemente por el desgaste de la mañana. No obstante esa tarde tome una foto que en breve -sino me equivoco- se convertira en el fondo de escritorio del ordenador de mi padre (y probablemente junto a el, el de mi primo), lo cual en si mismo es suficiente recompensa para mi.
Asi, cansados pero contentos llegamos a Bhraga (3450 m). Mas contentos aun cuando nos enteramos de que esta vez SI, ¡habia una ducha caliente!
Annapurnas Day 4: The Fantasy Forest
● Wednesday, March 11, 2009
The fourth day started up with a feet care session by Dr. Merino. Benny's foot showed a very bad-looking blister that I treated following the instructions that my brother gave me before leaving home (I knew that having a physiotherapist in the family had to be useful some day). Tyres changed, the convoy was ready to hit the road!
Day 4 felt as two separate days. The first half featured some of the most magnificent landscapes of the trek, forest of pine trees escorted by massive rock walls. I switched on my MP3 player which immersed me in a world of motion pictures. Once again, it's difficult -if not impossible- to explain how trees and rolling stones became alive with the soundtrack of Ludovico Einaudi.
Suddenly some cold sparks woke me up from my fantasy dream. They were snow flakes falling from the until then unnoticed cloudy sky. Whereas most trekkers run to take refuge in some guest house, we saw the new scenario as a perfect occasion to enjoy some superb landscapes in the restored loneliness of the trek. We put our warmest clothes on and started walking through the now snowed forest. Right decision, the woods looked gorgeous covered in fresh snow.
Earlier than expected we arrived to Lower Pisang (3250 m). The second half of the day was different, but even more beautiful I would say. We checked in at a lodge in Lower Pisang and went for a side walk to Upper Pisang. Upper Pisang (3310 m) was -as I remember it now- one of the most beautiful villages along the trek. This sort-of ghost village offers an unbeatable view on Annapurna I, II and the Gangapurna (all off them close or above 8000 m). Besides, the heart of the settlement hosts a very colourful Gompa. Despite being new, the temple holds a legendary look including figurines of Buddha and an endless array of Tibetan books. After the visit we came down to Lower Pisang to spend the night at the foot of the Annapurnas, crowned by the full moon.
El cuarto dia se caracterizo por las dos mitades, a cual mas interesante, en las que se dividio la jornada. La mañana empezo con una sesion de curas a cargo del Doctor Merino (esto viene de familia). El pie de Benny padecia una ampolla severa que urgia ser tratada con 10 ml. de Betadine y gasas varias (desde aqui traslado el agradecimiento de Benny a mi hermano y mi madre, los cuales me enseñaron como tratar ampollas aunque con suerte dispar como puede verse en las fotos). Una vez listos, partimos camino de Pisang. Tal y como la recuerdo, esa mañana se convirtio en poco menos que una pelicula para mi. Con Ludovico Einaudi sonando en mi MP3, el valle parecia despertar como si de un ser vivo se tratase. Las rocas, los abetos, las aguilas, todos bailaban al son del piano y el violin. De pronto una sensacion fria me desperto de mi pelicula, ¡copos de nieve!. Mientras que la mayoria de montañeros corria a refugiarse, Bodo, Benny y yo decidimos abrigarnos bien y seguir en solitario para disfrutar de la belleza del nuevo escenario. Como se puede ver en las fotos merecio la pena. Asi llegamos a Lower Pisang (3250 m), donde dejamos las mochilas y nos fuimos de visita a Upper Pisang (3310 m). Este pueblo fantasma es uno de los mas bonitos e interesantes que recuerdo. Su ambiente desolado y decadente contrastaba con las vistas inigualables sobre el Annapurna I, II y el Gangapurna (todos ellos rondando o superando los 8000 m). Al anochecer bajamos a Lower Pisang para pasar la noche, esta vez si, al calor del fuego y la luna llena.
Day 4 felt as two separate days. The first half featured some of the most magnificent landscapes of the trek, forest of pine trees escorted by massive rock walls. I switched on my MP3 player which immersed me in a world of motion pictures. Once again, it's difficult -if not impossible- to explain how trees and rolling stones became alive with the soundtrack of Ludovico Einaudi.
Suddenly some cold sparks woke me up from my fantasy dream. They were snow flakes falling from the until then unnoticed cloudy sky. Whereas most trekkers run to take refuge in some guest house, we saw the new scenario as a perfect occasion to enjoy some superb landscapes in the restored loneliness of the trek. We put our warmest clothes on and started walking through the now snowed forest. Right decision, the woods looked gorgeous covered in fresh snow.
Earlier than expected we arrived to Lower Pisang (3250 m). The second half of the day was different, but even more beautiful I would say. We checked in at a lodge in Lower Pisang and went for a side walk to Upper Pisang. Upper Pisang (3310 m) was -as I remember it now- one of the most beautiful villages along the trek. This sort-of ghost village offers an unbeatable view on Annapurna I, II and the Gangapurna (all off them close or above 8000 m). Besides, the heart of the settlement hosts a very colourful Gompa. Despite being new, the temple holds a legendary look including figurines of Buddha and an endless array of Tibetan books. After the visit we came down to Lower Pisang to spend the night at the foot of the Annapurnas, crowned by the full moon.
El cuarto dia se caracterizo por las dos mitades, a cual mas interesante, en las que se dividio la jornada. La mañana empezo con una sesion de curas a cargo del Doctor Merino (esto viene de familia). El pie de Benny padecia una ampolla severa que urgia ser tratada con 10 ml. de Betadine y gasas varias (desde aqui traslado el agradecimiento de Benny a mi hermano y mi madre, los cuales me enseñaron como tratar ampollas aunque con suerte dispar como puede verse en las fotos). Una vez listos, partimos camino de Pisang. Tal y como la recuerdo, esa mañana se convirtio en poco menos que una pelicula para mi. Con Ludovico Einaudi sonando en mi MP3, el valle parecia despertar como si de un ser vivo se tratase. Las rocas, los abetos, las aguilas, todos bailaban al son del piano y el violin. De pronto una sensacion fria me desperto de mi pelicula, ¡copos de nieve!. Mientras que la mayoria de montañeros corria a refugiarse, Bodo, Benny y yo decidimos abrigarnos bien y seguir en solitario para disfrutar de la belleza del nuevo escenario. Como se puede ver en las fotos merecio la pena. Asi llegamos a Lower Pisang (3250 m), donde dejamos las mochilas y nos fuimos de visita a Upper Pisang (3310 m). Este pueblo fantasma es uno de los mas bonitos e interesantes que recuerdo. Su ambiente desolado y decadente contrastaba con las vistas inigualables sobre el Annapurna I, II y el Gangapurna (todos ellos rondando o superando los 8000 m). Al anochecer bajamos a Lower Pisang para pasar la noche, esta vez si, al calor del fuego y la luna llena.
Annapurnas Day 3: The Fourth Member
● Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Early in the morning of day 3 we had our first encounter with the snow. For now it was only a decorative hat topping the neighbouring mountains. During breakfast Bodo, Benny and me joked about what would go first, us to the snow or the snow to us. Soon we'd find out!
In our way to Manang (first leg of the circuit) we discovered that Basques, Quebecois, or Vlaams don't hold the exclusivity of regional independentism, apparently Nepal is also a nest of unhappy brothers. Religion followed politics in the form of a Gompa that popped aside the trek. I'll never stop feeling surprised to see how delicate and beautiful things can be done when someone truly believes. After collecting a little bit of good karma by spinning some holy cylinders (sorry Buddha, I forgot the name, I hope you can forgive me for that), we continued our trip.
As in a fairy tale, the flowers foregrounded the snowy peaks in our busy cameras. And then -all of a sudden- it happened, we met the fourth man, The Unexpected! The Fourth Member of the team was no other but the 100% Nepali wood stick that I adopted as my most loyal climbing companion. It took a while but once properly shaped it would become the third (what the heck! the fourth!) leg that would propel me to the top of the world.
With my mind still busy making up bad jokes about the fourth member, the team arrived to Chame. In Chame (2710 m) we realized that it was Holy Day for the Hindus. A furious battle of red paint had taken the streets of this charming village and Benny was on-targeted by one local contender. By the way, if you check the pictures don't miss the little boy that we meanly named the 'Fucked-up kid' (I'm sorry, I know it's extremely rude but it just suited his look after the war of paint).
Also in Chame we finally met The Others (I mean, the other trekkers). Just like in Lost, we had heard them, we had noticed their footprints, but we had never seen any of them. In contrast with Lost's The Others, these ones were very friendly and peaceful. It was great fun to share our thoughts about the day with other people while we enjoyed a warm cup of tea. And God knows that we needed that cup of tea because as it turned out that was the only warm thing that we would feel that freezing night in Chame!
El tercer dia por fin vimos la nieve. De momento solo en la cima de las montañas colindantes pero pronto bajaria a recibirnos. Un buen desayuno y nos lanzamos al camino. En el mismo descubrimos que los nacionalismos no son cosa agena en Nepal, al parecer aqui los hermanos tambien se tiran piedras de vez en cuando. Tras la politica llego la religion, y con ella los templos o Gompas y los cilindros metalicos que uno hace girar para recolectar buen karma (como si de un videojuego se tratase). Tras la religion llego la primavera, con sus flores dando color al blanco de las montañas, y tras ellas, a la vuelta de la esquina, conocimos a nuestro cuatro compañero de viaje. Y este no seria otro que el palo o makila que le robe al bosque local. Como buen (ejem, ejem) montañero patatero no podia dejar pasar la oportunidad de agregar una tercera (que narices, cuarta! que hay confianza) pierna al equipo, la cual me propulsaria a la cima de las montañas nepalis.
Y asi con unas cosas y otras llegamos a chame (2710 m). Este precioso pueblo de montaña estaba siendo escenario de cruentos combates de guerra, noooo, no os procupeis, se trataba de una guerra de pintura roja para celebrar una fiesta religiosa hindu. En las fotos podeis ver que tanto Benny fue objetivo facil de los niños locales. Finalmente, de vuelta al albergue por fin encontramos otros senderistas. Durante los primeros dias no habiamos coincidido con muchos, pero en Chame tuvimos la oportunidad de compartir estufa y te con algunos de ellos. Noche fria en Chame, maldita la hora en la que elegimos aquel bungalow!
In our way to Manang (first leg of the circuit) we discovered that Basques, Quebecois, or Vlaams don't hold the exclusivity of regional independentism, apparently Nepal is also a nest of unhappy brothers. Religion followed politics in the form of a Gompa that popped aside the trek. I'll never stop feeling surprised to see how delicate and beautiful things can be done when someone truly believes. After collecting a little bit of good karma by spinning some holy cylinders (sorry Buddha, I forgot the name, I hope you can forgive me for that), we continued our trip.
As in a fairy tale, the flowers foregrounded the snowy peaks in our busy cameras. And then -all of a sudden- it happened, we met the fourth man, The Unexpected! The Fourth Member of the team was no other but the 100% Nepali wood stick that I adopted as my most loyal climbing companion. It took a while but once properly shaped it would become the third (what the heck! the fourth!) leg that would propel me to the top of the world.
With my mind still busy making up bad jokes about the fourth member, the team arrived to Chame. In Chame (2710 m) we realized that it was Holy Day for the Hindus. A furious battle of red paint had taken the streets of this charming village and Benny was on-targeted by one local contender. By the way, if you check the pictures don't miss the little boy that we meanly named the 'Fucked-up kid' (I'm sorry, I know it's extremely rude but it just suited his look after the war of paint).
Also in Chame we finally met The Others (I mean, the other trekkers). Just like in Lost, we had heard them, we had noticed their footprints, but we had never seen any of them. In contrast with Lost's The Others, these ones were very friendly and peaceful. It was great fun to share our thoughts about the day with other people while we enjoyed a warm cup of tea. And God knows that we needed that cup of tea because as it turned out that was the only warm thing that we would feel that freezing night in Chame!
El tercer dia por fin vimos la nieve. De momento solo en la cima de las montañas colindantes pero pronto bajaria a recibirnos. Un buen desayuno y nos lanzamos al camino. En el mismo descubrimos que los nacionalismos no son cosa agena en Nepal, al parecer aqui los hermanos tambien se tiran piedras de vez en cuando. Tras la politica llego la religion, y con ella los templos o Gompas y los cilindros metalicos que uno hace girar para recolectar buen karma (como si de un videojuego se tratase). Tras la religion llego la primavera, con sus flores dando color al blanco de las montañas, y tras ellas, a la vuelta de la esquina, conocimos a nuestro cuatro compañero de viaje. Y este no seria otro que el palo o makila que le robe al bosque local. Como buen (ejem, ejem) montañero patatero no podia dejar pasar la oportunidad de agregar una tercera (que narices, cuarta! que hay confianza) pierna al equipo, la cual me propulsaria a la cima de las montañas nepalis.
Y asi con unas cosas y otras llegamos a chame (2710 m). Este precioso pueblo de montaña estaba siendo escenario de cruentos combates de guerra, noooo, no os procupeis, se trataba de una guerra de pintura roja para celebrar una fiesta religiosa hindu. En las fotos podeis ver que tanto Benny fue objetivo facil de los niños locales. Finalmente, de vuelta al albergue por fin encontramos otros senderistas. Durante los primeros dias no habiamos coincidido con muchos, pero en Chame tuvimos la oportunidad de compartir estufa y te con algunos de ellos. Noche fria en Chame, maldita la hora en la que elegimos aquel bungalow!
Annapurnas Day 2: Donkey (Traffic) Jam
● Monday, March 09, 2009
Some experienced (I suppose) traveler once said that it is important to keep the day-to-day routine activities to prevent home sickness. Although I've never been the kind of guy who gets up in the morning and does some push-ups or anything like that, that morning I couldn't resist the temptation of doing some rural weight lifting. Those homemade weights were so cool and the housewife who exercised them so fit that it came across my mind that it ought to be healthy. As healthy was to breath some fresh air before taking the first step of the day. Another bridge over the Marsyangdi, another picture. This trek is really not suitable for those high-phobics!, I though while I took one of the coolest pictures of the entire trek (in my opinion).
We were cruising normally through the valley when a sudden roar penetrated our ears. False alarm, it was only a friendly stampede or local children running down the hill on their way to school. Among them I found one that drew my attention in a special manner, a little girl who somehow resembled the daughter of one of my cousins but with Nepali features (dark hair and skin). I don't know whether I resembled her Spanish cousin or not but the fact is that that little beauty showed us around her school village better than a professional guide.
Having seen the nursery, we headed off for the next village. Following the recommendations of the experienced traveler that I mentioned before we chose to get stuck in a traffic jam just as we'd do in Spain, Germany or Holland. There was only one main difference, the 'road' was crowded with a line of donkeys instead of cars. Another dissimilarity was the source of the traffic jam which happened to be some random set of explosions targeting peaceful rocks blocking the course of an upcoming road (I'm telling you guys, come to Nepal before it is too late!!!).
A few blasted rocks later we were back in business. Rock, river, rock, river, rock, bridge, river, amazing rock, river, amazing river, rock, rock, river, lake, rock, river... wait! did I say lake? oh yeah, we had reached Tal! Tal (1700 m) is the name (which literally means 'lake' in Nepali) of a village that lies right in between two narrow gorges of the Marsyangdi valley. After the monsoon the whole area is flooded with crystal clear water stemming from the snowed peaks. This time of the year there was only a wide section of the river. I insisted on taking a dive but the Germans refused, they favoured some apple pie (which I didn't deny). With that extra energy the road to Karte was a piece of cake! (<- I know, bad joke). As expected, it took us 1:30 hours to reach our destination: Karte (1870 m). Freezing cold shower, download/upload of gastric contents, and sweet bed time!
Aqui un servidor empezo el segundo dia del trek haciendo unas cuantas pesas al estilo Nepali. Me parecieron tan originales, y la ama de casa que las usaba tan saludable, que no pude resistir la tentacion. Tras esto y una bocanada de aire fresco, comenzamos la jornada. Ibamos tranquilamente charlando cuando la primera estampida del dia nos sorprendio de manera inesperada. Falsa alarma, tan solo se trataba de unos niños corriendo ladera abajo de camino a la escula. Entre ellos habia una niña que me llamo la atencion de manera especial, no se, de alguna manera me recordaba a Ixane, la hija de mi primo Raul. La Ixane nepali nos enseño gustosa su pueblecito y nos despidio con un tierno Namazte!. Cual fue nuestra sorpresa cuando nos vimos atascados en un atrasco al mas puro estilo occidental. La principal diferencia fue que en vez de coches eran burros los que se apilaban en la carretera. Al parecer algunos hombres locales estaban dinamitando rocas en el camino para abrir paso a una futura pista forestal. Tras superar esto continuamos con nuestro camino. Roca, rio, roca, rio, rio, roca, roca impresionante, rio, rio impresioante, roca, puente, roca, rio, lago, rio, roca... lago? si, habiamos llegado a Tal. Tal es un pueblo en mitad del valle donde se acumula el agua que baja de los picos nevados. En esta epoca del año solo se ve un rio, en el cual me quise pegar un baño, pero mis compañeros alemanes me persuadieron para acompañarles en la labor de comerse una tarta de manzana. El dulce de la tarta nos propulso como motos hasta Karte (1870 m). Alli, una ducha helada y las labores diarias de carga y descarga de contenidos gastricos sirvieron de preludio a la ceremonia de meterse en la camita caliente (o algo asi).
We were cruising normally through the valley when a sudden roar penetrated our ears. False alarm, it was only a friendly stampede or local children running down the hill on their way to school. Among them I found one that drew my attention in a special manner, a little girl who somehow resembled the daughter of one of my cousins but with Nepali features (dark hair and skin). I don't know whether I resembled her Spanish cousin or not but the fact is that that little beauty showed us around her school village better than a professional guide.
Having seen the nursery, we headed off for the next village. Following the recommendations of the experienced traveler that I mentioned before we chose to get stuck in a traffic jam just as we'd do in Spain, Germany or Holland. There was only one main difference, the 'road' was crowded with a line of donkeys instead of cars. Another dissimilarity was the source of the traffic jam which happened to be some random set of explosions targeting peaceful rocks blocking the course of an upcoming road (I'm telling you guys, come to Nepal before it is too late!!!).
A few blasted rocks later we were back in business. Rock, river, rock, river, rock, bridge, river, amazing rock, river, amazing river, rock, rock, river, lake, rock, river... wait! did I say lake? oh yeah, we had reached Tal! Tal (1700 m) is the name (which literally means 'lake' in Nepali) of a village that lies right in between two narrow gorges of the Marsyangdi valley. After the monsoon the whole area is flooded with crystal clear water stemming from the snowed peaks. This time of the year there was only a wide section of the river. I insisted on taking a dive but the Germans refused, they favoured some apple pie (which I didn't deny). With that extra energy the road to Karte was a piece of cake! (<- I know, bad joke). As expected, it took us 1:30 hours to reach our destination: Karte (1870 m). Freezing cold shower, download/upload of gastric contents, and sweet bed time!
Aqui un servidor empezo el segundo dia del trek haciendo unas cuantas pesas al estilo Nepali. Me parecieron tan originales, y la ama de casa que las usaba tan saludable, que no pude resistir la tentacion. Tras esto y una bocanada de aire fresco, comenzamos la jornada. Ibamos tranquilamente charlando cuando la primera estampida del dia nos sorprendio de manera inesperada. Falsa alarma, tan solo se trataba de unos niños corriendo ladera abajo de camino a la escula. Entre ellos habia una niña que me llamo la atencion de manera especial, no se, de alguna manera me recordaba a Ixane, la hija de mi primo Raul. La Ixane nepali nos enseño gustosa su pueblecito y nos despidio con un tierno Namazte!. Cual fue nuestra sorpresa cuando nos vimos atascados en un atrasco al mas puro estilo occidental. La principal diferencia fue que en vez de coches eran burros los que se apilaban en la carretera. Al parecer algunos hombres locales estaban dinamitando rocas en el camino para abrir paso a una futura pista forestal. Tras superar esto continuamos con nuestro camino. Roca, rio, roca, rio, rio, roca, roca impresionante, rio, rio impresioante, roca, puente, roca, rio, lago, rio, roca... lago? si, habiamos llegado a Tal. Tal es un pueblo en mitad del valle donde se acumula el agua que baja de los picos nevados. En esta epoca del año solo se ve un rio, en el cual me quise pegar un baño, pero mis compañeros alemanes me persuadieron para acompañarles en la labor de comerse una tarta de manzana. El dulce de la tarta nos propulso como motos hasta Karte (1870 m). Alli, una ducha helada y las labores diarias de carga y descarga de contenidos gastricos sirvieron de preludio a la ceremonia de meterse en la camita caliente (o algo asi).
Annapurnas Day 1: Where Children Grow On Trees
● Sunday, March 08, 2009
Packing up took me longer than I thought (went bed around 1am), but as it turned out I invested well my time. My 10 kg rucksack (<- here my tribute to German) included all I was going to need during the trek, no more, no less. Woke up at 5 am and walked 15 min in the complete darkness to meet Bodo and Benny downtown. A sleepy taxi driver played some bizarre Nepali rock on the radio on the way to the bus stand where we had just enough time to have a Nepalese tea and some brand-baked rolls before getting on a 'tourist-I-promise-tourist' bus. No worries, who cares about having limited or no space for the legs when one is to face 15 days of severe leg stretching! Arrived to Besisahar by noon, I remember leaving behind a couple of Dutch trekkers enjoying some bread and butter (Quoting Woulter: "The Netherlands, the only nation that has breakfast twice a day on a daily basis") while we walked for the second bus of the day. The second ride was even more thrilling. This time our main concern was not the overcrowded carriage but the negligible distance between the wheels of the bus and a 150 m free fall. At last the God-blessed vehicle reached the point where the 'road' extinguishes, which nowadays (but not for long) is Bhulbhule (840 m). Here a curious fact for those interested: Bhulbhule is an onomatopoeic name resembling the sound of the cruising by river Marsyangdi (hope you enjoyed it!). Signed our credentials at the local ACAP check point, we were ready to start walking.
A long suspensions bridge and a remarkable waterfall offered a promising welcome to the trek. It's funny when I look back in my memories and remember the naive convoy taking photos like crazy as though those were the only bridge and waterfall of the trek! :). From there on 6 hours of pleasant trekking up the valley overwhelmed by sights such as the Coca Cola delivery man (porter) and the Children-tree (Prunum Parvulus).
The sun went down but we, still on the trek, felt confident to reach Ghermu that evening. I forgot to mention that we were aiming to cut off one day within the first 3 days of trek so that we could complete the circuit in two weeks enabling Bodo to be back in Delhi in time for work.
Ghermu (1130 m) materialized just when we were starting to have problems to see the trek without autonomous light. It was great relief to check in and take our sweaty T-shirts off, nevertheless the best part was the dinner. Apparently the Coca Cola delivery boy wasn't the only one, his counterpart of the custard company had been to Ghermu too!
El primer dia comenzo temprano para mi. La noche anterior me acoste tarde ya que tenia que resolver muchos asuntos antes de partir, entre ellos preparar la mochila. 10 kg que incluian todo lo que a la postre resultaria util. Asi, tras 4 hora de sueño sali en medio de la noche al encuentro de Bodo y Benny. La radio del minitaxi nos mantuvo despiertos hasta la para del primer bus. Un bus abarrotado hasta los topes de gente pero no nos preocupamos demasiado, al fin y al cabo teniamos 15 dias por delante para estirar las piernas. Cerca del mediodia llegamos a Bhulbhule, la ultima ciudad hasta donde alcanza el camino de parcelaria hoy en dia (aunque no por mucho tiempo). Desde alli partimos valle arriba a orillas del Marsyangdi. Un puente colgante y una cascada bastante impresionante nos dieron la bienvenida al camino. Es gracioso pensar ahora en la cantidad de fotos que sacamos pensando que estos serian los unicos puentes y cascadas del camino. De ahi en adelante 6 horas de paso agil hasta Ghermu. El camino nos iba desvelando sus secretos poco a poco, un porteador acarreando mil y una botellas de Coca Cola, niños que crecen en los arboles... no pasaban mas de 15 minutos sin ver algo intrigante. Justo cuando ya empezabamos a tener problemas para discernir el sendero llegamos a Ghermu. Fue un alivio llegar y darse una ducha (fria), tal vez habiamos estado demasido tiempo caminando pero es que queriamos ahorrar un dia de camino para que Bodo pudiera volver a Delhi a tiempo para reincorporarse al trabajo. Lo mejor de la noche fue la cena, hidratos de carbono en forma de macarrones y ¡natillas de postre!
A long suspensions bridge and a remarkable waterfall offered a promising welcome to the trek. It's funny when I look back in my memories and remember the naive convoy taking photos like crazy as though those were the only bridge and waterfall of the trek! :). From there on 6 hours of pleasant trekking up the valley overwhelmed by sights such as the Coca Cola delivery man (porter) and the Children-tree (Prunum Parvulus).
The sun went down but we, still on the trek, felt confident to reach Ghermu that evening. I forgot to mention that we were aiming to cut off one day within the first 3 days of trek so that we could complete the circuit in two weeks enabling Bodo to be back in Delhi in time for work.
Ghermu (1130 m) materialized just when we were starting to have problems to see the trek without autonomous light. It was great relief to check in and take our sweaty T-shirts off, nevertheless the best part was the dinner. Apparently the Coca Cola delivery boy wasn't the only one, his counterpart of the custard company had been to Ghermu too!
El primer dia comenzo temprano para mi. La noche anterior me acoste tarde ya que tenia que resolver muchos asuntos antes de partir, entre ellos preparar la mochila. 10 kg que incluian todo lo que a la postre resultaria util. Asi, tras 4 hora de sueño sali en medio de la noche al encuentro de Bodo y Benny. La radio del minitaxi nos mantuvo despiertos hasta la para del primer bus. Un bus abarrotado hasta los topes de gente pero no nos preocupamos demasiado, al fin y al cabo teniamos 15 dias por delante para estirar las piernas. Cerca del mediodia llegamos a Bhulbhule, la ultima ciudad hasta donde alcanza el camino de parcelaria hoy en dia (aunque no por mucho tiempo). Desde alli partimos valle arriba a orillas del Marsyangdi. Un puente colgante y una cascada bastante impresionante nos dieron la bienvenida al camino. Es gracioso pensar ahora en la cantidad de fotos que sacamos pensando que estos serian los unicos puentes y cascadas del camino. De ahi en adelante 6 horas de paso agil hasta Ghermu. El camino nos iba desvelando sus secretos poco a poco, un porteador acarreando mil y una botellas de Coca Cola, niños que crecen en los arboles... no pasaban mas de 15 minutos sin ver algo intrigante. Justo cuando ya empezabamos a tener problemas para discernir el sendero llegamos a Ghermu. Fue un alivio llegar y darse una ducha (fria), tal vez habiamos estado demasido tiempo caminando pero es que queriamos ahorrar un dia de camino para que Bodo pudiera volver a Delhi a tiempo para reincorporarse al trabajo. Lo mejor de la noche fue la cena, hidratos de carbono en forma de macarrones y ¡natillas de postre!
Annapurnas Day 0: Meeting the Team
● Saturday, March 07, 2009Doing a long trek in Nepal was one of the most certain items in my TO-DO list. Having read and discussed the different options (btw thanks Kimmo for you wise advice), I decided to go for the Annapurna Circuit (a.k.a. Around the Annapurnas).
Although the circuit around the Annapurnas is -since it opened in the 70s- one of the most popular treks in Nepal, all the guides I've read or talked to splicity mentioned that one should never trek alone. For that reason I spent a few days in Pokhara hoping to run into someone wanting to do the same trek on the same dates. I hung a few flyers around the city but did not get any response for what I decided to go straight to the hottest spot of trekkers in town: the ACAP point.
ACAP stands for Annapurna Conservation Area Project, an organisation that manages aspects such as tourism and conservation of this northern area of Nepal. Soon I realised that I could have saved time and ink if I had gone there in the first place. I believe it took me around 2 minutes to meet Bodo and Benny (20 & 19), two Germans currently volunteering in Delhi as a part of the 1-year long compulsory civil service that German nationals have to 'donate' to their state. They had arrived to Pokhara earlier that morning after a troublesome overnight bus ride from the Indian border (some revels had smashed the windows of their bus [...]) and were eager to start the trek that very same day.
After a brief talk I convinced them to take off the next morning. That evening we spent a few hundred rupees in three bus tickets to Kudhi and a few other items that might turn out useful during the trek such as gloves, iodine tablets, maps, a knife and some fake North Face cloths.
Geared up the only thing left was having a last carnivore supper and some sleep to top up our system batteries.
After a brief talk I convinced them to take off the next morning. That evening we spent a few hundred rupees in three bus tickets to Kudhi and a few other items that might turn out useful during the trek such as gloves, iodine tablets, maps, a knife and some fake North Face cloths.
Geared up the only thing left was having a last carnivore supper and some sleep to top up our system batteries.
Completar un trek (recorrido de senderismo) en Nepal era una de esas cosas que tenia marcadas en mi lista de cosas que hacer antes de morirme. Tras sopesar las distintas opciones me decante por el Circuito de los Annapurnas.
Este circuito se abrio en los 70 y desde entonces son muchos los montañeros que lo completan cada año (uno 9000 para ser mas exactos). Una de las normas basicas es no echarse a la montaña solo, por ello durante algunos dias recorri Pokhara en busca de compañeros de aventuras. Asi es como conoci a Bodo y Benny, dos alemanes de 20 y 19 años que se encuentran realizando prestacion social en la India (como alternativa a la mili). Tras charlar un rato decidimos partir la mañana siguiente, sin guia ni poteadores pero con algo de equipacion (tabletas potablizadoras, mapas y ropa de abrigo) y las pilas bien cargadas tras una cena carnivora y unas horas de sueño.
On the top of the World! (or almost)
● Saturday, March 07, 2009
15 days, 201 kilometers, 8000+ meters of climbs, max altitude of 5416 m, min temperature of -18ºC, 40 grames of Cola Cao, and TWO healthy legs... that's what it takes to complete the ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT!
Last Sunday -March 22nd, 3:27 pm- my two trekking partners and me reached Nayapul to complete one of the most self-rewarding experiences of my life. Such an adventure deserves profound explanation and rich descriptions for what I've decided to start a small series called Chroniques of the Annapurnas (for short, Annapurnas) consisting of 17 mini-posts reporting the daily progress of our expedition.
Note that I've also updated the previous post about Pokhara (where I'm currently spending some days of well-deserved rest) as well as some pictures.
Nothing else for now, I hope you enjoy the show just as much as I did!
15 dias, 201 kilometros, mas de 8000 m de rampas, una altitud maxima de 5416 m., temperaturas minimas de -18ºC, 40 gramos de Cola Cao y DOS piernas bien puestas es lo que se necesita para completar ¡el Circuito de los Annapurnas!
El pasado Domingo 22 mis dos compañeros y yo llegamos a Nayapul para completar uno de los desafios mas reconfortantes de mi vida. Para describir mi experiencia he decidido escribir una serie de articulos relatando nuestro devenir diario, ¡espero que los disfruteis tanto como yo!.
Last Sunday -March 22nd, 3:27 pm- my two trekking partners and me reached Nayapul to complete one of the most self-rewarding experiences of my life. Such an adventure deserves profound explanation and rich descriptions for what I've decided to start a small series called Chroniques of the Annapurnas (for short, Annapurnas) consisting of 17 mini-posts reporting the daily progress of our expedition.
Note that I've also updated the previous post about Pokhara (where I'm currently spending some days of well-deserved rest) as well as some pictures.
Nothing else for now, I hope you enjoy the show just as much as I did!
15 dias, 201 kilometros, mas de 8000 m de rampas, una altitud maxima de 5416 m., temperaturas minimas de -18ºC, 40 gramos de Cola Cao y DOS piernas bien puestas es lo que se necesita para completar ¡el Circuito de los Annapurnas!
El pasado Domingo 22 mis dos compañeros y yo llegamos a Nayapul para completar uno de los desafios mas reconfortantes de mi vida. Para describir mi experiencia he decidido escribir una serie de articulos relatando nuestro devenir diario, ¡espero que los disfruteis tanto como yo!.
Ready, steady... Ne-pal! (edited version)
● Friday, March 06, 2009N.B. After reading through this post I noticed that due to the limited time I failed to explain how great Pokhara can be, for that reason here it goes my second attempt:
Twenty-five days staring at massive palaces, having chais and watching mystical ceremonies was great but as I said before, I am more of a DO person than a WATCH person.
Twenty-five days staring at massive palaces, having chais and watching mystical ceremonies was great but as I said before, I am more of a DO person than a WATCH person.
For that reason last Sunday I said namaste (-bye) to India right before saying namaste (-hello) to Nepal. I crossed the border shortly after noon and decided to head to Pokhara instead of Kathmandu or Chitwan (most common destinations for people entering Nepal via Sanauli). Don't ask me why I did this, I just had a very strong feeling about it. Three French guys (Sabrine, Logan and Ronan) and me shared a tiny taxi to cover the 245 km that separate the Indian border and the second largest city of the country.
During the long journey to Pokhara I felt like a child during Christmas Eve. The sun went meanly to let us only sketch in our minds a little bit of the great present that was awaiting for us next morning. Miles and miles of spectacular mountain ridges wrapped in the darkest black paper sometimes decorated with tiny shinny lights. Luckily we didn't have to wait until next morning to get our first gift. Just after arriving to the hotel we were rewarded with a Western style toilet! (Note that when I say 'Western' I mean all the developed countries except for the Netherlands and their pelican-style crap-thrones).
Next morning I woke up early for my particular Christmas day. I run to the door of the hotel to see if Santa had left a present for me and... YES! there was it, right in front of my hotel, the Machhapuchhre!
But there was more, much more. For those who know it, Pokhara can be compared with Switzerland's Interlaken or Spain's Jaca. This place really is an amusement park for mountain lovers. The city is characterized by a great lake called Pewa Tal which inspired Spanish Heroes del Silencio's song Bendecida. Along the lake a rich variety of guest-houses and restaurants can be found suiting everyone's pocket, my personal recommendation is to check those lying in the northside of the lake since they are the cheapest and therefore crowded with young laid-back travellers. Besides that, active travellers will find a complete menu of exciting activities to satiate their thrist: mountain-biking, kayaking, rafting, paraglading and of course trekking.
Over the past days I've tried a few of these myself in the good company of Ronan Herve, a French fellow that I met in the border. An average day in Pokhara would go as follows: Waking up early to have a huge continental breakfast featuring brand-baked French baguettes and Tibetan bread (<- Iñaki's choice). After breakfast we'd leave for an excursion on foot or by bike to some nearby lake or mountain including teas with local villagers. During the trip we would be due to solve incidental events such as bike parts falling apart, sudden needs to jump into tempting waters, and local kids challenging us to matches on rather exotic ping-pong tables (thanks good I was trained for this at TOPdesk!). At 8 o'clock sharp, a programmed blackout would force us to take care of the utmost important things in life: delicious pancakes buried under half an inch layers of chocolate, candle-enabled reading sessions and endless philosophical discussions.
In conclusion, from now and for a few days Pokhara will become my home in Nepal. It offers all I need to arrange Iñaki's Next Top Project: The Annapurnas. I won't reveal too many details for now, stay put and you'll find out more very soon!
Despues de 25 dias en India ya estaba un poco cansado de tanto mirar y deambular de aqui para alla sin quemar demasiada energia. Para solucionar esto el pasado domingo cruce la frontera y entre en el maravilloso reino de Nepal. Que gran pais Nepal, mi entrada aqui fue como la vispera de la noche de reyes. Durante 6 largas horas que pase en el taxi a Pokhara tuve que aguantar delante de mis narices un gran paquete de regalo con forma de montañas espectaculares forrado de papel negro. La noche habia caido y no podiamos ver mas alla del barranco que bordeaba la carretera. Asi llegamos a Pokhara, una especie de Jaca a lo grande. A la mañana siguiente desperte y corri a la puerta para desembolver mi regalo. Alli estaba, el mismisimo Machhapuchhre delante de mis narices. Tuve que frotarme los ojos varias veces para asegurarme de que no estaba soñando.
Durante 6 dias he estado probando algunas de las actividades que se pueden hacer aqui. Paseos en bici y trekking en la buena compañia de Ronan Herve, un chico frances que conoci en la frontera. Y todo esto es solo el principio, ¡mañana mismo parto hacia los Annapurnas!
Over the past days I've tried a few of these myself in the good company of Ronan Herve, a French fellow that I met in the border. An average day in Pokhara would go as follows: Waking up early to have a huge continental breakfast featuring brand-baked French baguettes and Tibetan bread (<- Iñaki's choice). After breakfast we'd leave for an excursion on foot or by bike to some nearby lake or mountain including teas with local villagers. During the trip we would be due to solve incidental events such as bike parts falling apart, sudden needs to jump into tempting waters, and local kids challenging us to matches on rather exotic ping-pong tables (thanks good I was trained for this at TOPdesk!). At 8 o'clock sharp, a programmed blackout would force us to take care of the utmost important things in life: delicious pancakes buried under half an inch layers of chocolate, candle-enabled reading sessions and endless philosophical discussions.
In conclusion, from now and for a few days Pokhara will become my home in Nepal. It offers all I need to arrange Iñaki's Next Top Project: The Annapurnas. I won't reveal too many details for now, stay put and you'll find out more very soon!
Despues de 25 dias en India ya estaba un poco cansado de tanto mirar y deambular de aqui para alla sin quemar demasiada energia. Para solucionar esto el pasado domingo cruce la frontera y entre en el maravilloso reino de Nepal. Que gran pais Nepal, mi entrada aqui fue como la vispera de la noche de reyes. Durante 6 largas horas que pase en el taxi a Pokhara tuve que aguantar delante de mis narices un gran paquete de regalo con forma de montañas espectaculares forrado de papel negro. La noche habia caido y no podiamos ver mas alla del barranco que bordeaba la carretera. Asi llegamos a Pokhara, una especie de Jaca a lo grande. A la mañana siguiente desperte y corri a la puerta para desembolver mi regalo. Alli estaba, el mismisimo Machhapuchhre delante de mis narices. Tuve que frotarme los ojos varias veces para asegurarme de que no estaba soñando.
Durante 6 dias he estado probando algunas de las actividades que se pueden hacer aqui. Paseos en bici y trekking en la buena compañia de Ronan Herve, un chico frances que conoci en la frontera. Y todo esto es solo el principio, ¡mañana mismo parto hacia los Annapurnas!
Varanasi? No, Thank You!
● Monday, March 02, 2009
Quoting/editing one of my favorites movies, "traveling is like a box of chocolates". So far every city, town and village had exploded in my mouth leaving a delicious taste (even Delhi, which needed a few days of chewing before reaching the sweet core). Nonetheless chocolate boxes in India are likely to contain rotten bonbons lying right next to the sweet ones. And that's the case of Varanasi. I had big expectations about this city, everybody described it to me as special, mystical, sacred, quiet... well, either I got off at the wrong train station or I just wasn't in the right mood. I'd probably go for the latter.
Thirty long hours on two long trains might be too much even for the keenest of the travelers. Add to that a troublesome ride on a rickshaw and an endless peregrination from hotel to hotel searching for a cheap room and you will obtain as a result a grumpy and tired fellow. The three hour siesta didn't work, neither did the tasty chocolate pancakes of the German Bakery, nor the company of Eva (21, German), Jorge (29, Guatemala) and Clare (27, UK)... Varanasi was called to be a bitter bite.
The second day I tried again, went for a walk along the ghats (concrete staircase beaches where pilgrims from all over the country come to meet Mother Ganga) down to the Hindu University of Benaras but nothing, not a single trickle of joy or interest. Ugly narrow alleys stuffed with boring shops selling Chinese crap and fake pashminas, cow shit all around, decadent temples and touts, many touts, the most annoying I've found in this country.
I started day #3 in a desperate attempt to find something that made my visit to Benares worthwhile. I went for one of the superpopular cruises through the Ganga river during sunrise. I'll give it a 6, perhaps a 7 if you are lucky and your boatman is able to explain the story behind each ghat (like Manikarnika, the most important crematory where hindu families bring the bodies of their beloved ones and pay loads of money to burn them).
And that's how this chapter came to an end, a tasteless end. Here some good advice if you ever plan to visit Varanasi: go there well-rested and whenever possible in good company, book a good hotel neat the south ghats, eat well (my favorite place: Ganga Fuji Restaurant), listen to your IPod while skimming through the market stalls, and leave the city withing 48-60 hours.
Interesting things I've learnt:
Mi visita a Varanasi no fue tan interesante como esperaba. Muchos me habian hablado de su ambiente mistico, pacifico, espiritual, especial... bla bla bla. No se si es porque llegue cansado despues de 30 horas en dos trenes o simplemente porque no soy un tio especialmente mistico, pero a mi Varanasi me entro del reves desde el principio. Tanto polvo y mierda como en cualquier otra ciudad, pero aqui te la disfrazan de callejuelas pintorescas con templos supersagrados (sisi, lo que tu digas). Tantos vendedores pesados como en cualquier otra ciudad, pero encima aqui te dicen cuentan que si los dioses, que si el Ganges, que si clases de yoga... en fin, que yo lo dejo para los perro-flautas.
Tres dias intentando ver algo que mereciese la pena, y lo unico destacable es el paseo en barca al amanecer. Interesante ver como la gente caga, mea, tira la basura, bautiza e incinera a sus miertos en apenas 6 km de rio. Llamarme simplista o ciego, pero yo creo que este pais no va a ninguna parte hasta que sus mandatarios (y educadores) tengan una charla seria con los Dioses.
Asi que nada, me fui de Varanasi con mas pena que gloria, pero bueno, no todo van a ser familias supermajas y sitios superinteresantes. \
Thirty long hours on two long trains might be too much even for the keenest of the travelers. Add to that a troublesome ride on a rickshaw and an endless peregrination from hotel to hotel searching for a cheap room and you will obtain as a result a grumpy and tired fellow. The three hour siesta didn't work, neither did the tasty chocolate pancakes of the German Bakery, nor the company of Eva (21, German), Jorge (29, Guatemala) and Clare (27, UK)... Varanasi was called to be a bitter bite.
The second day I tried again, went for a walk along the ghats (concrete staircase beaches where pilgrims from all over the country come to meet Mother Ganga) down to the Hindu University of Benaras but nothing, not a single trickle of joy or interest. Ugly narrow alleys stuffed with boring shops selling Chinese crap and fake pashminas, cow shit all around, decadent temples and touts, many touts, the most annoying I've found in this country.
I started day #3 in a desperate attempt to find something that made my visit to Benares worthwhile. I went for one of the superpopular cruises through the Ganga river during sunrise. I'll give it a 6, perhaps a 7 if you are lucky and your boatman is able to explain the story behind each ghat (like Manikarnika, the most important crematory where hindu families bring the bodies of their beloved ones and pay loads of money to burn them).
And that's how this chapter came to an end, a tasteless end. Here some good advice if you ever plan to visit Varanasi: go there well-rested and whenever possible in good company, book a good hotel neat the south ghats, eat well (my favorite place: Ganga Fuji Restaurant), listen to your IPod while skimming through the market stalls, and leave the city withing 48-60 hours.
Interesting things I've learnt:
- India is going nowhere until the local authorities have a serious talk with the Gods.
- Water of Ganga river contains 1.5 billion bacteria per ml. (3000000 times the maximum amount tolerable for baths)
- Pilgrims in Varanasi can swim, wash themselves, pee, poo, burn corpses, feed animals, throw garbage and say 'Cheese' to Japanese photographers in less than 5km of river.
Mi visita a Varanasi no fue tan interesante como esperaba. Muchos me habian hablado de su ambiente mistico, pacifico, espiritual, especial... bla bla bla. No se si es porque llegue cansado despues de 30 horas en dos trenes o simplemente porque no soy un tio especialmente mistico, pero a mi Varanasi me entro del reves desde el principio. Tanto polvo y mierda como en cualquier otra ciudad, pero aqui te la disfrazan de callejuelas pintorescas con templos supersagrados (sisi, lo que tu digas). Tantos vendedores pesados como en cualquier otra ciudad, pero encima aqui te dicen cuentan que si los dioses, que si el Ganges, que si clases de yoga... en fin, que yo lo dejo para los perro-flautas.
Tres dias intentando ver algo que mereciese la pena, y lo unico destacable es el paseo en barca al amanecer. Interesante ver como la gente caga, mea, tira la basura, bautiza e incinera a sus miertos en apenas 6 km de rio. Llamarme simplista o ciego, pero yo creo que este pais no va a ninguna parte hasta que sus mandatarios (y educadores) tengan una charla seria con los Dioses.
Asi que nada, me fui de Varanasi con mas pena que gloria, pero bueno, no todo van a ser familias supermajas y sitios superinteresantes. \
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