When my friend Linda mentioned Myanmar a few months ago a big question mark popped above my head. Further chatting enabled my to conclude that she had to be talking about Burma (Birmania, in Spanish). The ? shrank but didn't vanish. Who'd have told me then that a few months later I would get the chance to visit legendary Birmania and its great peoples.
For those who - like me then - know little or nothing about Myanmar (or Burma) here it goes a few facts and figures: An estimated population of approx. 56 million Burmese live sandwiched between northeast India, China and Thailand. After subsequent Chinese, Siamese, British and Japanese domination, the country is now ruled by a bunch of scrupleless thieves disguised as pseudo-communists. These insatiable government persists thanks to the interested support of next door's India and China - who suck the natural gas, wheat and teak wood supplies - along with the ostracism of the international community.
Despite most travelers avoid the visit to Myanmar (for the government co-owns most of the tourist-oriented businesses), I'm glad that I did it for a few days. I will skip the fascinating tribe peoples whose description of an average alien comprises a young man carrying a pot of Cola Cao. I will also omit the thrill of being the only foreigner in the entire town (even province I think) for a few days. What I will talk about today is the story of Mr. Yun, my trekking guide in Kengtung and one of the most inspiring persons that I've ever met.
This is the story of a smart man in a country where only smart men get one - in the best case - opportunity to make a good honest living. Mr. Yun (note that this isn't his real name) was born some thirty years ago in a rather poor Shan family. At a young age his understanding teacher would allow him to skip a few hours of school in order to make some money working at a video shop. In addition, every afternoon the young Yun would work as a waiter at a local restaurant frequented by the few foreigners who stumbled here on their way to China. During these years Yun had the best possible language teachers: well-trained instructors who taught him the officially-imposed Burmese at school, Thai tourist and businessmen loyal to the restaurant who would speak only in Thai to him, and finally Bruce Willis' and Sylvester Stallone's voices sounding cracked in those old VHS tapes. And in this our hero reached his 20s, a time when almost every man (and woman) feels the need to expand his boundaries. One of the regular Thai tourists offered help on the other side of the border, which our friend would cross with a fake Chinese passport, no more clothes that those he wore and 60$ in his pocket (that Thai officials reduced to 3$ soon). Once in Thailand Mr. Yun's friend would ask him what he wanted to do next, to what he answered that he's dream was to see the ocean. That he achieved days later. What next? the friend asked. Yun said that he wanted to find a job. And that's how this brave man approached his first job interview. 32 applicants for a position as a waiter in a Thai-American restaurant and only one without a Thai ID card (actually his fake Chinese passport had already expired). It is in this occasions when only smart men can take the next step. While the rest of the candidates waited for their interview, Mr. Yun stood up, entered the kitchen and started bringing plates to the tourist waiting at the tables - after all he knew how to do that. That night Mr. Yun learnt that 'French fries' had little to do with Frenchmen bathing in a fryer. The American owner noticed that the young boy was able to communicate with the foreign customers in English, after what he called him to his room. How many languages do you speak? he asked. Four! Thai, Chinese, English and Burmese. Although the young Yun omitted Shan, it was clear to the manager that Yun was an illegal immigrant. In spite of this he gave him the job. For a few months Mr. Yun worked at the restaurant, where foreigners who enjoyed his company would pay him dinners and beers thanks to which his English got almost perfect. One day and due to some economic problems the restaurant closed. It was then when Mr. Yun experienced the drama of a disheartening majority of Burmese emigrants. Peoples who populate the night markets of the big touristic cities selling everything (this includes their bodies when it comes to young girls) to earn just enough money to pay their 'bosses'. Once again our smart friend would reveal against his doom. He crossed one of the many clandestine bamboo bridges over the Mekong river to sneak in his own country! Back in Burma his knowledge of languages granted him a job helping Benny, the one and only trekking guide in the Shan state. With Benny he learned everything about the business, from dealing with foreigners and corrupt officers to the culture and language of the local hill tribes (currently he speaks 10 different languages). Those were the good days. Unfortunately good days don't last long in this country. An infamous expedition to some remote area of the country ended up with Benny dying from Malaria in dark cell of a Burmese jail [...]. For some reason the amount of tourist dropped dramatically to reach the miserable numbers that they represent nowadays. And although there is no happy ending for this story, Mr. Yun proved his condition of smart man once again by recycling himself into an improvised English teacher, which allows him to bring food to the table around which his two children sit and eat every day.
Without a doubt meeting such a person has been one of the most educative experiences of my life. I was aware of the difficult situations that immigrants have to face when, for example, they arrive to Europe after crossing the sea from Africa; but now I can put a face and give a name to those tired men that we see on the news almost every day. The most annoying thing is that - in contrast with African emigrants - Burmese people come from a country rich in resources where almost anything could grow anywhere. Then one can only blame one of the greediest and meanest governments on Earth for this. I know we cannot do much but being aware of the problem and spreading the word could be the first step towards a better future for the sweet people of Myanmar. If you want to know more please visit http://helpmyanmar.wordpress.com and if you ever get the chance to meet Mr. Yun ask me for contact details.
Interesting things I've learnt:
Cuando mi amiga Linda menciono Birmana hace un tiempo poco me hacia pensar que meses mas tarde tendria la oportunidad de visitar dicho pais por mi mismo. Aunque la mayoria de turistas evitan su visita en apoyo al boicot internacional al que el gobierno (dueno de la mayoria de servicios orientados a los turistas) esta sometido, me alegro de haber pasado unos dias alli. Ha sido una experiencia muy instructiva, pues no solo he conocido inospitas tribus Akha y Eng personalmente, sino que ademas he aprendido mucho sobre el significado de la palabra ingusticia. Ingusticia politica, la que ejerce una gobierno de ladrones disfrazados de pseudo-comunistas. Ladrones sin escrupulos que se perpetuan en el tiempo gracias al apoyo incondicional de, entre otros, China e India (socios-chupocteros adictos a las reservas nacionales de gas natual, trigo y madera) y el ostracismo internacional. Esto condena a los casi 56 millones de birmanos a una vida de penurias e ingusticias, especialmente aquellos ciudadanos de segunda provenientes de familias Shan o de las tribus de las montanas.
Ilustrare esto con las historia personal del Sr. Yun, mi guia por las montanas de Kengtung. Yun nacio hace mas de treinta anos en el seno de una famila Shan. A temprana edad sus profesores le permitieron saltarse algunas clases para trabajar en un viejo videoclub, donde aprendia ingles gracias a las peliculas americanas. Todas las tardes tras la escuela, el joven Yun trabajaba en un restaurante local frecuentado por turistas y hombres de negocios tailandeses que paraban en la ciudad de camino a China. Como tipo listo que es, Yun aprovecho esas largas tardes para aprender el idioma Tailandes gracias a los turistas. Llegados sus 20 anos y visto el crudo panorama del pais Yun decidio probar suerte en la vecina Tailandia. Ayudado por uno de los turistas Tailandeses, Yun cruzo la frontera con un pasaporte falso, la ropa que llevaba puesta y 60 dolares que se reducirian a 3 horas despues de entrar a Tailandia (gracias a la inestimable ayuda de unos policias Tailandeses). El sueno de Yun era ver el oceano, el cual se hizo realidad gracias a su amigo Tailandes. Tras esto Yun se presento a una entrevista de trabajo. 32 aspirantes para un puesto de camarero y uno solo sin carnet de identidad Tailandes, adivinad de quien se trataba. Como hombre inteligente que es, Yun se adelanto a sus competidores. Mientras estos esperaban su turno para la entrevista Yun se puso el mandil y empezo a sacar platos de la cocina. Cuando el dueno del restaurante vio que Yun no solo era capaz de servir mesas sino que ademas podia comunicarse en ingles con los turistas, no dudo en darle el trabajo. Esos fueron unos meses felices para Yun, trabajando y haciendo amigos turistas que le pagaban cenas y cervezas durante las cuales mejoraria su ingles. Meses despues el bar cerro. Fue entonces cuando Yun encontro con el drama de los emigrantes Birmanos en Tailandia. Hombres y mujeres que pueblan los mercados nocuturnos vendiendo de todo (lo que incluye su cuerpo cuando se trata de chicas jovenes) para malvivir a la sombra de las mafias. Una vez mas Yun se revelo contra su destino. Se colo de vuelta en su propia patria a traves de uno de los numerosos puentes de bambu sobre el rio Mekong. De vuelta en casa, su dominio de los idiomas (Chino, Tailandes, Birmano, Shan e Ingles) le garantizo un trabajo junto a Benny, el unico y legendario guia turistico en la zona. Durante esos anos Yun aprendio todo sobre el negocio, desde como tratar a los turistas y oficiales corruptos hasta aprender las costumbres e idiomas de las tribus a las que visitaban (hoy en dia habla casi 10 idiomas en total). Anos despues Benny moriria en extranas circunstancias (lease problemas con el gobierno). Desde entonces el numero de turistas ha caido extrepitosamente hasta situarse en una cifra ridicula (durante la mayoria de mis dias en Kengtung fue oficialmente el unico extrangero en la ciudad). Aunque no hay final feliz, nuestro amigo Yun volveria a dar un ejemplo de supervivencia reciclandose a si mismo en un profesor de Ingles, lo cual le permite llevar pan a la mesa donde sus dos hijos comen a diario.
Sin duda alguna conocer al Sr. Yun (nombre falso, por cierto) ha sido una de las experiencias mas instructivas de mi vida. Ya conocia el drama de la emigracion pero ahora puedo poner nombre y cara a los hombres que cruzan el estrecho de Gibraltar. Lo mas triste de todo es que, a diferencia de estos, los emigrates Birmanos provienen de un pais rico en recursos naturales, donde casi cualquier semilla puede germinar y crecer en casi cualquier lugar. Entonces uno solo puede culpar a uno de los gobiernos mas crueles e insaciables del planeta por esta injusticia. Ser conscientes de esto es lo minimo que podemos y debemos hacer como primer paso hacia un futuro mejor para las buenas gentes de Birmania. Que corra la voz.
For those who - like me then - know little or nothing about Myanmar (or Burma) here it goes a few facts and figures: An estimated population of approx. 56 million Burmese live sandwiched between northeast India, China and Thailand. After subsequent Chinese, Siamese, British and Japanese domination, the country is now ruled by a bunch of scrupleless thieves disguised as pseudo-communists. These insatiable government persists thanks to the interested support of next door's India and China - who suck the natural gas, wheat and teak wood supplies - along with the ostracism of the international community.Despite most travelers avoid the visit to Myanmar (for the government co-owns most of the tourist-oriented businesses), I'm glad that I did it for a few days. I will skip the fascinating tribe peoples whose description of an average alien comprises a young man carrying a pot of Cola Cao. I will also omit the thrill of being the only foreigner in the entire town (even province I think) for a few days. What I will talk about today is the story of Mr. Yun, my trekking guide in Kengtung and one of the most inspiring persons that I've ever met.
This is the story of a smart man in a country where only smart men get one - in the best case - opportunity to make a good honest living. Mr. Yun (note that this isn't his real name) was born some thirty years ago in a rather poor Shan family. At a young age his understanding teacher would allow him to skip a few hours of school in order to make some money working at a video shop. In addition, every afternoon the young Yun would work as a waiter at a local restaurant frequented by the few foreigners who stumbled here on their way to China. During these years Yun had the best possible language teachers: well-trained instructors who taught him the officially-imposed Burmese at school, Thai tourist and businessmen loyal to the restaurant who would speak only in Thai to him, and finally Bruce Willis' and Sylvester Stallone's voices sounding cracked in those old VHS tapes. And in this our hero reached his 20s, a time when almost every man (and woman) feels the need to expand his boundaries. One of the regular Thai tourists offered help on the other side of the border, which our friend would cross with a fake Chinese passport, no more clothes that those he wore and 60$ in his pocket (that Thai officials reduced to 3$ soon). Once in Thailand Mr. Yun's friend would ask him what he wanted to do next, to what he answered that he's dream was to see the ocean. That he achieved days later. What next? the friend asked. Yun said that he wanted to find a job. And that's how this brave man approached his first job interview. 32 applicants for a position as a waiter in a Thai-American restaurant and only one without a Thai ID card (actually his fake Chinese passport had already expired). It is in this occasions when only smart men can take the next step. While the rest of the candidates waited for their interview, Mr. Yun stood up, entered the kitchen and started bringing plates to the tourist waiting at the tables - after all he knew how to do that. That night Mr. Yun learnt that 'French fries' had little to do with Frenchmen bathing in a fryer. The American owner noticed that the young boy was able to communicate with the foreign customers in English, after what he called him to his room. How many languages do you speak? he asked. Four! Thai, Chinese, English and Burmese. Although the young Yun omitted Shan, it was clear to the manager that Yun was an illegal immigrant. In spite of this he gave him the job. For a few months Mr. Yun worked at the restaurant, where foreigners who enjoyed his company would pay him dinners and beers thanks to which his English got almost perfect. One day and due to some economic problems the restaurant closed. It was then when Mr. Yun experienced the drama of a disheartening majority of Burmese emigrants. Peoples who populate the night markets of the big touristic cities selling everything (this includes their bodies when it comes to young girls) to earn just enough money to pay their 'bosses'. Once again our smart friend would reveal against his doom. He crossed one of the many clandestine bamboo bridges over the Mekong river to sneak in his own country! Back in Burma his knowledge of languages granted him a job helping Benny, the one and only trekking guide in the Shan state. With Benny he learned everything about the business, from dealing with foreigners and corrupt officers to the culture and language of the local hill tribes (currently he speaks 10 different languages). Those were the good days. Unfortunately good days don't last long in this country. An infamous expedition to some remote area of the country ended up with Benny dying from Malaria in dark cell of a Burmese jail [...]. For some reason the amount of tourist dropped dramatically to reach the miserable numbers that they represent nowadays. And although there is no happy ending for this story, Mr. Yun proved his condition of smart man once again by recycling himself into an improvised English teacher, which allows him to bring food to the table around which his two children sit and eat every day.
Without a doubt meeting such a person has been one of the most educative experiences of my life. I was aware of the difficult situations that immigrants have to face when, for example, they arrive to Europe after crossing the sea from Africa; but now I can put a face and give a name to those tired men that we see on the news almost every day. The most annoying thing is that - in contrast with African emigrants - Burmese people come from a country rich in resources where almost anything could grow anywhere. Then one can only blame one of the greediest and meanest governments on Earth for this. I know we cannot do much but being aware of the problem and spreading the word could be the first step towards a better future for the sweet people of Myanmar. If you want to know more please visit http://helpmyanmar.wordpress.com and if you ever get the chance to meet Mr. Yun ask me for contact details.
Interesting things I've learnt:
- The Shan people represent up to 9% of the Burmese population. Most of them live in the Shan state (east-most province of the country) and speak Shan. Needless to say that the Burmese government would ignore and even ban any sign of Shan culture.
- A '84 Hyunday Accord cost whooping $23000 in 1999 (twice as much as brand-new). In 2003 the government closed the roads of the Shan state and expropriated every car in the province. The good cars would be used or sold by members of the government, the rest would be abandoned (locked) until the rain dissolves them.
- The approximate prize of a mobile phone in Myanmar is $40 (more or less the same as in Europe). However the license to use it rounds the $2300 (bought to an officer in the black market). This is cheap if compared with the $2800 that one must pay to purchase a land line.
- When operating, a flight ticket from Kengtung to Yangoon costs around $80 to a foreigner. The same ticket would cost $150 to a Burmese citizen!
- Eng tribes chew a mix of tobacco and leaves in order to blacken their teeth. White teeth are rejected as they are characteristic of dogs, said to be dumb and lazy.
- Akha tribe-peoples accept and practice polygamy. Moreover an Akha couple will not marry until the upcoming husband has granted a child in his future wife's abdomen.
- The characteristic Akha hats can be worth up to $2000. Each silver coin (often from th French or British empires) is worth around 100$!
Cuando mi amiga Linda menciono Birmana hace un tiempo poco me hacia pensar que meses mas tarde tendria la oportunidad de visitar dicho pais por mi mismo. Aunque la mayoria de turistas evitan su visita en apoyo al boicot internacional al que el gobierno (dueno de la mayoria de servicios orientados a los turistas) esta sometido, me alegro de haber pasado unos dias alli. Ha sido una experiencia muy instructiva, pues no solo he conocido inospitas tribus Akha y Eng personalmente, sino que ademas he aprendido mucho sobre el significado de la palabra ingusticia. Ingusticia politica, la que ejerce una gobierno de ladrones disfrazados de pseudo-comunistas. Ladrones sin escrupulos que se perpetuan en el tiempo gracias al apoyo incondicional de, entre otros, China e India (socios-chupocteros adictos a las reservas nacionales de gas natual, trigo y madera) y el ostracismo internacional. Esto condena a los casi 56 millones de birmanos a una vida de penurias e ingusticias, especialmente aquellos ciudadanos de segunda provenientes de familias Shan o de las tribus de las montanas.
Ilustrare esto con las historia personal del Sr. Yun, mi guia por las montanas de Kengtung. Yun nacio hace mas de treinta anos en el seno de una famila Shan. A temprana edad sus profesores le permitieron saltarse algunas clases para trabajar en un viejo videoclub, donde aprendia ingles gracias a las peliculas americanas. Todas las tardes tras la escuela, el joven Yun trabajaba en un restaurante local frecuentado por turistas y hombres de negocios tailandeses que paraban en la ciudad de camino a China. Como tipo listo que es, Yun aprovecho esas largas tardes para aprender el idioma Tailandes gracias a los turistas. Llegados sus 20 anos y visto el crudo panorama del pais Yun decidio probar suerte en la vecina Tailandia. Ayudado por uno de los turistas Tailandeses, Yun cruzo la frontera con un pasaporte falso, la ropa que llevaba puesta y 60 dolares que se reducirian a 3 horas despues de entrar a Tailandia (gracias a la inestimable ayuda de unos policias Tailandeses). El sueno de Yun era ver el oceano, el cual se hizo realidad gracias a su amigo Tailandes. Tras esto Yun se presento a una entrevista de trabajo. 32 aspirantes para un puesto de camarero y uno solo sin carnet de identidad Tailandes, adivinad de quien se trataba. Como hombre inteligente que es, Yun se adelanto a sus competidores. Mientras estos esperaban su turno para la entrevista Yun se puso el mandil y empezo a sacar platos de la cocina. Cuando el dueno del restaurante vio que Yun no solo era capaz de servir mesas sino que ademas podia comunicarse en ingles con los turistas, no dudo en darle el trabajo. Esos fueron unos meses felices para Yun, trabajando y haciendo amigos turistas que le pagaban cenas y cervezas durante las cuales mejoraria su ingles. Meses despues el bar cerro. Fue entonces cuando Yun encontro con el drama de los emigrantes Birmanos en Tailandia. Hombres y mujeres que pueblan los mercados nocuturnos vendiendo de todo (lo que incluye su cuerpo cuando se trata de chicas jovenes) para malvivir a la sombra de las mafias. Una vez mas Yun se revelo contra su destino. Se colo de vuelta en su propia patria a traves de uno de los numerosos puentes de bambu sobre el rio Mekong. De vuelta en casa, su dominio de los idiomas (Chino, Tailandes, Birmano, Shan e Ingles) le garantizo un trabajo junto a Benny, el unico y legendario guia turistico en la zona. Durante esos anos Yun aprendio todo sobre el negocio, desde como tratar a los turistas y oficiales corruptos hasta aprender las costumbres e idiomas de las tribus a las que visitaban (hoy en dia habla casi 10 idiomas en total). Anos despues Benny moriria en extranas circunstancias (lease problemas con el gobierno). Desde entonces el numero de turistas ha caido extrepitosamente hasta situarse en una cifra ridicula (durante la mayoria de mis dias en Kengtung fue oficialmente el unico extrangero en la ciudad). Aunque no hay final feliz, nuestro amigo Yun volveria a dar un ejemplo de supervivencia reciclandose a si mismo en un profesor de Ingles, lo cual le permite llevar pan a la mesa donde sus dos hijos comen a diario.
Sin duda alguna conocer al Sr. Yun (nombre falso, por cierto) ha sido una de las experiencias mas instructivas de mi vida. Ya conocia el drama de la emigracion pero ahora puedo poner nombre y cara a los hombres que cruzan el estrecho de Gibraltar. Lo mas triste de todo es que, a diferencia de estos, los emigrates Birmanos provienen de un pais rico en recursos naturales, donde casi cualquier semilla puede germinar y crecer en casi cualquier lugar. Entonces uno solo puede culpar a uno de los gobiernos mas crueles e insaciables del planeta por esta injusticia. Ser conscientes de esto es lo minimo que podemos y debemos hacer como primer paso hacia un futuro mejor para las buenas gentes de Birmania. Que corra la voz.
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