Phonm Penh: The Dual Nature Of Mankind

Eventually I got rid of my viral travelmate in Phonm Penh. The capital of Cambodia is a fairly developed mid-sized city with not many charms. Nonetheless visiting this city is a must for those who want to understand Cambodia and its terrible recent history.

The Khmer Rouge, a communist party led by dictator Pol Pot, devastated the country from 1975 to 1979 in what it is known as one of the most dramatic examples of tyrannical madness. Their social revolution described an agrarian-based society where individual propriety, thinking and even family ties were suppressed in favour of the new system. Thousands of people were forced to leave their cities and jobs to become farmers. The educated Cambodian (people who had higher studies, spoke a foreign language, or simply wore glasses!) were killed along with all their families. Children were separated from their families in order to undergo a brainwashing process that would set the principles of a new and 'better' life for them. Intellectuals were tortured and murdered in the most savage ways that can be imagined (think of the worst). Overall it is estimated that 1.5 million Cambodians (10% of the total population) died under the regime.

Nowadays one can perceive the tragic consequences of these years not only at the genocide museum or memorial but in every street. The lack of education can be noticed in everyday events such as tuk-tuk drivers violently elbowing each other to earn a tourist's dollar, hotel maintenance staff repairing an electric socket without taking any precautions and -above all- in the street children. There must be something wrong when a 7-year old has to make his living selling fake Lonely Planet guidebooks on the streets because his family can't afford PAYING for his school.

Given the levels of corruption of the current government, any hope for a better future in Cambodia relies on foreign aid. It must be difficult for a country that has witnessed the greatest atrocities to understand the passionate and selfless work of anonymous people. People like Chris, an American man that I met in Bangkok and who co-runs an orphanage in PP. There are others. People who build and teach at schools, educate adults, develop rural areas, provide health care... in conclusion people who prove wrong the evil nature of mankind that some Cambodians were forced to believe in during their childhood.

PS: In a recent message my friend Chris explained the financial problems that some organisations are facing due to the global economic crisis. I'm not going to ask you for money because I haven't donated anything myself but if you are interested in helping him in one or another way please let me know and I'll provide you his contact details.

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Una vez recuperado completamente de mi pequeno incidente con la fiebre, me propupuse descubrir los encantos de Phonm Penh. La verdad es que la capital de Camboya no destaca por su belleza, sin embargo es un lugar interesante si se quiere entender a la sociedad camboyana. Entre 1975 y 1979, Camboya sufrio los delirios de un regimen comunista liderado por Pol Pot, sin duda uno de los mas cruentos e irracionales jamas concevidos. Los Khmer Rouge (como se les denomino) quisieron implantar un nuevo sistema basado en una sociedad 100% rural. La gente que vivia en las ciudades fueron obligados a emigrar al campo, dejando sus trabajos para convertirse en labradores. Toda persona con estudios o sospechosa de tenerlos (p.ej. todo individuo que usaba gafas) fue eliminado junto a su familia. Ninos fueron separados de sus familias para englosar las filas del ejercito. Intelectuales fueron torturados y ejecutados de la manera mas cruenta. Un autentico genocidio que acabo con la vida de millon y medio de camboyanos.

Hoy en dia se pueden peribir las consecuencias de esta locura en procesos mundanos del dia a dia. La falta de educacion propicia taxistas luchando violentamente por servir a un turista, electricistas que arreglan enchufes sin tomar precauciones, y los ninos de la calle, sobretodo ellos. Ninos que se ganan la vida vendiendo libros porque sus padres no pueden pagar la escuela (la educacion no es gratuita).

Dados los niveles de corrupcion del gobieron, toda esperanza para Camboya reside en la ayuda exterior. Hombres y mujeres como mi amigo Chris que dan el cayo en orfanatos, escuelas y hospitales. Me pregunto si los camboyanos podran entender su labor desinteresada, especialmente despues de haber conocido la sin razon humana.