Gezellig World: Din Dang Natural Building Educational Centre, Thailand

And now it's finally the time to reveal what I've been up to these busy weeks. As I've said repeatedly on this blog, I'm the kind of traveler that enjoys doing things rather than staring at them. Bearing that in mind during the planning of my trip I searched for projects where I could learn stuff that nobody teaches at school or at uni. One such initiative is Din Dang Natural Building Education Centre. The project -founded in 2007- is located in a small Thai village Din Dangcalled Paksong in the area of Phato. It aims to promote ecological and traditional building techniques and it does in the most pragmatic way: by getting your hands dirty!

For three weeks I had the chance to share a wonderful time with Bow (the head of the project) his delightful family, and a bunch of volunteers from France, Holland and Thailand. We built stone walls, lay some clay, cut wood here and there, nailed this and that... but above all, we had a terrific time together!

Beyond the handworks, what I would like to highlight from projects like Din Dang is the opportunity to get soaked in the culture of a foreign country. Visiting a school, walking through the local market, observing carefully how simple things are done, watching the daily routine of the villagers, sharing a beer with them, tasting a fruit offered by a friendly monk, chatting about life, learning a new recipe... those kind of things are what make the different between a real traveler and a mere visitor. Here a modest advice from an aspirant to globetrotter: if you ever have the chance to take the next step, don't hesitate, you'll discover a new world that has been lying in front of your eyes all the time!

More info about Din Dang at http://www.dindangcom.page.tl/


Y por fin llego el momento de descrubir que demonios he estado haciendo estas ultimas semanas. Como ya he mencionado en varias ocasiones no soy el tipo de persona que se conforma con observar las cosas a su alrededor, siempre me gusta dar el siguiente paso. Por ello, antes de comenzar mi viaje recopile informacion sobre proyectos en los que pudiera aprender algo util, el tipo de cosas que no te ensenan en la escuela. Asi es como di a parar con el Centro Educativo En Construccion Natural Din Dang. Esta especie de campo de trabajo fue fundado en 2007 en la bella aldea de Paksong (region de Phato). Su objetivo primordial es promover tecnicas de construccion ecologicas y tradicionales de una manera practica.

Durante tres semanas tuve la oportunidad de convivir con Bow (organizador del campo), su acojedora familia y un grupo de voluntarios franceses, holandeses y tailandeses. Juntos construimos paredes de piedra (ahi queda mi homenaje a mi padre y a mi tia Esther que hicieron algo parecido no hace mucho tiempo atras... saludos!), mezclamos arcilla para la construccion, cortamos madera... en fin, un festival de la bricomania de andar por casa!

Sin embargo, lo que me gustaria destacar de proyectos como Din Dang es la oportunidad que ofrecen de empaparse en la cultura de un pais. Visitar una escuela, explorar un mercado local, observar con detenimiento como se hacen las cosas, aprender una receta nueva, charlar sobre las preocupaciones mundanas de las gentes del pueblo... ese tipo de cosas son las que marcan la diferencia entre un viajero y un viajante. Aqui va mi modesto consejo de trotamundos, si alguna vez teneis la oportunidad de dar el siguiente paso no dudeis, solo al darlo descubrireis el mundo que se esconde justo en frente de vuestros ojos.

Mas informacion sobre Din Dang en http://www.dindangcom.page.tl/

Pics'n'vids: Din Dang & Around

Geography Rocks!

3 weeks, one more than expected. That's what I took me to complete my therapy against the amazement overdose. First of all I would like to thank those who sent me messages cheering up (e.g. Cry, David, Esti...), reading comments on the blog pays for the time spent at the internet cafes. I guess there must've been some sort of misunderstanding about the whole Willy Fog's disease thing. There was nothing to worry about, it was just a metaphor. It kinda makes me feel guilty that people working hard back in Europe thought that I was suffering while in reality I was enjoying myself in a very relaxing Lao town.

That said I will now unfold the key points of my successful plan. In case you missed it, the underlying goal was to feel like at home for a while. How do you do that when you're +20000 km away, in the middle of Laos? The first thing you need is a temporary home. I chose Vang Vieng, a mid-sized town halfway between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. I did this in spite of a terrible first impression which involves hordes of British teenagers who -literally- fly into the city to get drunk (or worse) day after day for a few weeks. Then, what made me stay? well, this:

Meters and meters of virgin limestone rock calling for anyone wanting to climb it. That's how I met Adam and Apple, my temporary family. These Lao brothers run a modest climbing school which is the main meeting point for any respected climber that makes it this far. After a couple of days climbing together I told Adam about my plan and he suggested that I could move in with them and help at the shop.

This takes me to the third point of my plan: doing something useful. At the climbing school I would learn all about the equipment and techniques. If there were clients I would join for the day, if there weren't I would train, read or cook among other crucial things.

Geography teacherHowever, working at the shop was never my primary objective when I decided to settle in Vang Vieng. Far from that my main interest was to help the guys at Phoudindaeng's youth centre. In contrast to children, teaching teenagers is something that I can conceive as a short-term activity. After spending some time with the teens I noticed that they lacked some basic knowledge of geography (one of my favorite school subjects). I thought that this could be useful for them if they were to work with foreigners in the future. Thus I put together a two week course on geography rich in games, challenges and interesting stories... (you know, the kind of cool things that only a teacher that climbs and drives a motorcycle would do, hahaha). Preparing and teaching the lessons would add to my list of daily duties which looked something like this:

8:00 am - Up for a bucket shower!
8:30 am - Breakfast with CNN at Phua's
9:00 am - Climbing (when possible) or working at the shop
3:00 pm - Preparing the lessons
6:00 pm - Teaching at the youth centre
8:00 pm - Cooking or dinning out
10:00 pm - Time for a beer (or a caterpillar whisky!)

I am satisfied with my work in Vang Vieng. My friends at the youth centre are now able to recall the biggest-smallest/most-least populated continents and countries in Southeast Asia - which makes me very proud. More importantly I've discovered that even the most incompetent lecturer can teach when there is someone who really wants to learn :). For this and for the rest of the things that I've done over the last weeks I feel that it's time to resume my trip. Be warned, Iñaki is back on the road!

PS: On my last day in Vang Vieng I decided to give a try to the river tubing that attracts those party animals. Done responsibly it's fun, otherwise it can be potentially mortal.


Al final mi tratamiento contra el Mal del Gran Viajero me ha llevado tres semanitas. Tres semanas intentando sentirme como en casa para restaurar mis ganas de aventura. Y como consigue uno sentirse como en casa a mas de 20000 km de distancia? Muy facil. En primer lugar hay que elegir un nuevo hogar. Yo elegi Vang Vieng, un pueblo de tamano medio entre Luang Prabang y Vientiane. Aunque mi primera impresion del lugar no fue precisamente buena (el pueblo es un nido de adolescentes britanicos que llegan con una sola cosa en mente: beber hasta perder la conciencia); los metros y metros de roca caliza que flanquean el pueblo conquistaron mi alma de escalador en ciernes. Y alli me dirigi en compania de Adam y Apple. Estos hermanos lao (<- gentilicio de Laos) atienden una pequena escuela de escalada referente para cualquier trepamuros que se acerque al lugar. Tras un par de dias escalando le comente al hermano mayor que andaba buscando un lugar para asentarme una temporada. Adam me propuso trabajar en la tienda de escalada con ellos. Yo acepte la oferta gustosamente. Desde entonces la tienda se convirtio en mi campo base. Si se daba la oportunidad acompanaba a algun cliente a las rocas; sino, mataba el tiempo entrenando, leyendo, cocinando... entre otras muchas cosas utiles.

Aunque todo esto estaba muy guay, lo que realmente me movio a quedarme en Vang Vieng fue la gente que habia conocido semanas antes en el Centro para Jovenes de Phoudindaeng. Mi intencion era colaborar con ellos por un tiempo. Hable con los responsables y les comente que no queria implicarme con ninos (ya que eso requiere un trabajo continuo durante muchos meses); sin embargo, se me ocurrio una forma de ayudar a estos adolescentes. Durante mis primeras visitas note que algunos de estos jovenes carecian de conocimientos basicos de geografia. Pense que si su futuro esta ligado a trabajar con extrangeros, proveerles de dichos conocimientos podria serles util. Y asi es como me decidi a impartir un breve curso de geografia basica. Con la ayuda de internet desempolve mis conocimientos de geografia y prepare un programa rico en juegos e historietas. Todas las tardes, a eso de las 6 cogia la moto de mi amigo Apple y recorria los 4 km hasta el pequeno pueblo donde se encontraba el aula.

He de reconocer que estoy mas que satisfecho con la experiencia. Los chavales han aprendido algo (son capaces de mentar los continentes y paises mas/menos grandes y/o poblados); y yo he aprendido que hasta el mas incompetente de los profesores puede ensenar cuando hay gente dispuesta a aprender. Por todo esto y por el resto de cosas que aprendi en Vang Vieng creo que ya estoy en disposicion de continuar mi travesia. Iñaki vuelve a la carretera! o

PS: En mi ultimo dia en el pueblo decidi unirme a la marabunta de borrachos que se tiran rio abajo saltando y tirandose desde casi cualquier cosa. Hecho de manera responsable es divertido, de cualquier otra manera es potencialmente mortal.

Gezellig World: Phoudindaeng's Youth Centre, Laos

The preventive treatment against the Willy Fog's disease is probing its efficiency. My days in Vang Vieng fly by as my morale keeps climbing steadily. However today I wont talk about my miraculous cure. Instead I will add a new entry to the Gezellig World section of this blog.

Phoudindaeng's Youth CentreLast week during a visit to one of the many lagoons near this town I met a big group of local teenagers. Apart from their great courage (some of them were jumping into the water from +10 m high branches) what surprised me the most was the fluency of their English. Even though tourism is spreading rapidly in the area, most locals still struggle with the foreign languages. A closer look to the group revealed two young western girls who seemed to be their teachers. A short talk with Rachel (27, Canadian) confirmed my guess.

The group of boys and girls were members of a youth centre located in Phoudindaeng, a charming village 3 km north of Vang Vieng. Established in 2002, Phoudindaeng's youth centre offers a wide range of activities that include - among others - English courses, guitar and dance lessons, social studies and a sewing club. The centre was born as a brother project of the village's organic farm. In 2007, the Korean NGO AVAN (Asian Volunteer Action Network) included the centre within their 'Equal Education For All' progamme. With their support, locals and foreign volunteers built several clay huts that house the centre's library, classroom and computer room. Since then the centre has been sustained by short and long-term volunteers that collaborate with Lao staff.

Geography ClassAs I will explain in future posts, I had the chance to see the good labour of these teams in first person. Local children and teenagers have found a place where they can play and learn while they develop a sense of community. This doesn't not only grant them a better future in a region where speaking English can make a big difference, but it also reinforces the links between the families - mostly farmers - who live in Phoudindaeng.

Although it is expected that the centre will be autonomous (i.e. able to run without direct intervention of AVAN) by 2010, foreign travelers are always welcome to share their time and skills. The good results and the rewarding smiles of the students make the visit one of the most worthwhile experiences that one can find Laos. More info here!


Mi tratamiento preventivo contral el mal de Willy Fog va dando resultados, moral alta y subiendo y can ganas de volver a la carretera. Sin embargo hoy no os voy a hablar de esta cura milagrosa sino del Club Juvenil de Phoudindaeng, el segundo proyecto solidario para la seccion Gezellig World. La semana pasada durante una visita a una laguna cercana conoci a Rachel, una voluntaria canadiense que daba clases de ingles en este centro para jovenes de la zona. El centro es una iniciativa de los fundadores de la granja organica de Phoudindaeng. Con el soporte de la ONG coreana AVAN (Red de Voluntarios Asiaticos en Accion) jovenes voluntarios extrangeros y locales contriyeron las chozas de arcilla que albergan el aula, la bliblioteca y la sala de ordenadores del centro. Desde que fue construido el centro se sustenta de voluntarios extrangeros y autoctonos que imparten clases de ingles, guitarra, baile, costura... De esta manera los jovenes locales han encontrado un lugar de reunion, aprendizaje y divertimento donde ademas se estimula un sentido de desarrollo en comunidad, muy imporante en este entorno. Como explicare en futuros articulos, tuve la oportunidad de presenciar el buen trabajo de estos equipos mixtos en primera persona. Aunque esta previsto que el centro sea autonomo (independiente de la ayuda de la ONG Coreana) desde el ano que viene, transeuntes y voluntarios extrangeros seran siempre bievenidos. Yo os puedo garantaizar que la experiencia merece la pena! Mas informacion (en Ingles) aqui!

Gezellig World: Disabled Children in Bhaktapur, Nepal

At the beginning of this blog I stated that its main goal was to show you some of the wonderful things that populate the globe. So far I have posted about architectural marvels, heavenly bites, stately nature, exciting activities and such. However until now I haven't spoken much of what really makes this roundy home rock. I'm talking about the great people that make our planet a better place to live.

For this reason I have decided to open a new section named 'Gezellig World'. Gezellig is my favourite Dutch word. In a brave attempt to translate this term I'd say that it describes a small place or group of people wherein one feels confortable, happy, welcomed. Therefore within this category I'll include different projects and initiatives characterised by a firm solidary nature which -in my opinion- can serve as an inspiration.

To kick off I'll tell you a little bit about Suvadra. It was during my New Year's Day visit to Bhaktapur that I came across a group of disabled children uniformed in grey T-shirts. Apart from the homogeneus clothes, there was something that called my attention in a special way: every single one of the sixteen little boys and girls presented an immesurable smile in their face. I challenged myself to discover the source of their overwhelimg happiness. That's how I met Joyce and Krishna. They are the people in charge of this Dutch-Nepali NGO founded in 2006. This tiny and exquisitely managed organisation takes care of physically -and sometimes mentally too- disabled children from all over Nepal.

Their main project consists in running an adapted home where children can live, learn, play and be treated in a loving environment. Happy childrenRecalling Joyce's words, one of the main principles of the Nepali society is to watch for themselves before anyone else. While this is understandable in a country plunged in poverty, it consignes these unlucky infants to oblivion. As in the European medievo, some of these unfortunate kids are considered a divine punishment by their families. Consequenly the inocent boys and girls are in some cases kept in the dark rooms of the house - where the neighbours' prejudicing eyes do not reach.

Then, how can you explain these children's exulting joy? Well, by looking at passionate work of their caretakers. The privately funded organisation runs on Nepali workers and foreign volunteers. This is the case of -among others- Helen and Peter. These two young dutchies ended up living in the communal house during a break from their studies or early careers. Whether it is only for a few weeks or half a year, these guys learn and put in practice improvised care skills. The positive response of the children shows that mostly love and attention suffice their major needs. Nevertheless Joyce explained that the organisation lacks some professional phisiotherapist to treat the children and to train the Nepali team.

In conclusion, here there is a good alternative for anyone interested in spending some weeks or months in a gorgeus Newari town surrounded by the Himalayan mountains, living in a friendly house, spending very little money and getting much more than anyone could ever give. More info at http://www.suvadra.com/

PS: If you think that disabled children might be too much for you, you can also check another little project run by a couple of Dutch ladies that I met in Pokhara. Here their website: http://stichting-namaste-nepal.nl/


Cuando comence este blog me propuse descubriros algunas de las maravillas que pueblan nuestro planeta. Hasta ahora os he hablado de paisajes, palacios, comidas y actividades entre otras cosas; sin embargo, todavia no he hecho mencion explicita de la gente maravillosa que trabaja para hacer de este mundo un sitio mejor. Por ello, y para homenajear a estos heroes anonimos he decidido inaugurar una nueva seccion llamada 'Gezellig World'. Esta combinacion de terminos holandes e ingles engloba aquellas iniciativas que me encuentro en mi camino y que me llaman especialmente la atencion por su caracter solidario.

Para estrenar la seccion os hablare de Suvadra. En mi visita Bhaktapur me tope con una tribu de niños minusvalidos. Aparte de su uniforme gris, lo que me llamo especialmente la atencion fueron sus amplias sonrisas. ¿Como se explica tanta felicidad en un pais donde los niños con este tipo de afecciones son en muchas ocasiones considerados un castigo divino (y recluidos en sus casas)? Pues bien, gracias al duro trabajo de gente como Joyce y Krishna. Estos responsables comandan una pequeña ONG holendesa-nepali en la que trabajadores nepalis y voluntarios extranjeros colaboran para mantener un hogar adaptado a las necesidades de 16 niños y niñas con problemas fisicos (y a veces psiquicos). Este es el caso de Helen y Peter, dos jovenes holandeses que decidieron tomar un parentesis en sus carreras (academicas y laborales) para poner en practica improvisados cuidados. A juzgar por la respuesta de los niños la atencion y el cariño son suficientes en la mayoria de los casos; sin embargo, Joyce me comento que la organizacion necesita fisioterapeutas dispuestos a ayudar a formar al equipo nepali para llevar a cabo los tratamientos.

En conclusion, he aqui una buena alternativa para disfrutar de unas semanas o meses en uno de los pueblos mas bonitos con vistas a los Himalayas donde podreis ayudar y disfrutar de la compañia de estos niños tan majos gastando muy poco dinero y recibiendo mucho mas de lo que jamas podreis dar. Mas info: www.suvadra.com